Romain Desvenain, the prince of the Bistrot
It’s hard to resist the call of the bistro. Just the thought of a syrupy, full-bodied sauce or meat braised over a low heat for hours makes your heart pound and your mouth water. Yes, it’s the quintessential bistro that has gourmands in search of gastronomic comfort running to the four corners of our country. French nouvelle cuisine, Spanish molecular gastronomy and, more recently, the siren song of Nordic cuisine have not succeeded in dethroning this ingrained culture. Whether you’re slicing a piece of mimosa leek, breaking up the melting meat of a veal blanquette with a fork, or breaking up the thin, crispy layer of a crème brûlée with a spoon… it’s all there for the taking!
Romain Desvenain ©Genève Communication
Trainer and leader
Romain Desvenain knows that his future lies in a bistro. After seven years as Serge Labrosse’s loyal lieutenant at Le Boléro in Versoix, the young chef took over the Bistrot du Lion d’Or in Carouge eighteen months ago. This talented chef with his wiry figure and cheerful smile – in addition to being a lover of the product – is a leader of men and a talented trainer. “Transmission is the basis of our profession. It seems obvious to me to share my knowledge with the younger generation eager to learn the fine art of cooking”, declares this training expert.
However, Romain Desvenain wonders about the future of a disillusioned youth. Since the health crisis, all these budding chefs want to work differently. “Without changing the fundamentals of apprenticeship, shouldn’t it be up to the older generation to adapt? Jogging suits and basketballs for a job interview, of course not! But I’m sure there’s a way of understanding each other,” he continues. “Before you work for a project, know that you’re working for yourself,” he likes to remind the young apprentices around him.
Happy and fulfilled
Despite the economic and social context, Romain Desvenain has maintained a positive frame of mind since taking over the Bistrot du Lion d’Or in Carouge. “Even if the situation remains extremely difficult, I’ve never been so personally fulfilled, either within my establishment or in my role as boss.” It’s a touching confession, and one that resonates and soothes the heart as the restaurant world continues to suffer the vagaries of the most strained economic climate. Yet the chef’s life has not been a smooth ride, and even if the entrepreneurial adventure seems to be smiling on him, its share of inconveniences doesn’t seem to be holding back this jovial character with a southern accent.
Today, Romain Desvenain proudly holds the keys to this gourmet temple located at 53, rue Ancienne on the outskirts of the Sardinian town. After a period of adjustment, he has succeeded in building up a loyal clientele of regulars, while at the same time attracting new diners eager to discover the new owner’s cuisine. “It all clicked as soon as I walked in the door. From the terrace to the dining room, from the kitchens to the cellars, everything about this restaurant appealed to me.
Passion intact
It’s when you taste the elegant pot-au-feu ravioli followed by the suckling pig stuffed with Geneva longeole and melting apples that you understand what drives the chef: a gourmet thread that marries tradition with subtle evolution. At the helm of the Bistrot du Lion d’Or, Romain Desvenain crosses the seasons with undiminished passion and a sincere desire to do things right. It’s a state of mind that’s pleasing, that rings true and that should give a glimmer of hope to a whole future generation of chefs.
