Romain Desvenain, always a bistro!
Chef Romain Desvenain continues to chart his gastronomic course through the twists and turns of Geneva’s culinary scene, striving to maintain the bistro myth with passion, tenacity and a skilful blend of tradition and modernity. This chef and owner, with his lilting south-western accent and well-tempered character, has rapidly established himself as a key player in Geneva’s culinary scene, and far beyond. Fans of quail pithiviers with foie gras or shoulder of lamb from the Pyrenees recognize the talents of this chef who loves local produce. We spoke to this passionate young father, who confided in us frankly.
How are you, dear Romain?
“Although the nights are short, everything’s going well and everything’s going well. As for the restaurant, it’s already been two and a half years since I took over the Bistrot du Lion d’Or. The 2025 vintage is proving to be a special and relatively stressful year. We have to be very vigilant and pay attention to our daily routine. Even though I have loyal and benevolent customers, we’re feeling a slight slowdown. As far as I’m concerned, we’re still at the same stage as last year.
Yeast, Le Flacon and Ivy 23 have all closed… What’s happening in Carouge?
“I’m still a relative newcomer to the Carouge community, but you have to realize that the town planning work has had a huge impact on us all. Generally speaking, it seems to me that the situation is more complicated than ever. We’re a Sardinian village within the city of Calvin. In my opinion, Carouge remains more attractive than ever. As a chef and entrepreneur, I’m constantly challenging myself. It’s not easy every day, but we try. My teams and I manage to please our guests.
In a time of crisis, does a bistro still have a future?
“For me, more than ever! The aim is not to cook with butter and cream, but to cook in a very real way that will provide the comfort we so desperately need. These days, we’re returning to a certain kind of simplicity. We value products that are in season, of high quality and affordable.
What does a bistro in 2025 need to run smoothly?
“A beautiful, qualitative cuisine, with a clever blend of a vintage grandmother’s recipe and a resolutely modern personal touch. Above all, without distorting its origins! In this day and age, a bistro can’t function without a varied, well-priced wine list and committed, regular staff offering personalized service”.
With summer just around the corner, what’s on the menu?
“We’re keeping some of our signature dishes, but we’re also introducing a few lighter suggestions. A carpaccio of sea bream, vine peaches and buckwheat or artichokes combined with a fera du Léman and black lemon. On the main course, our suggestions include line hake, razor clams, potatoes, tomato confit and lovage, and a “vitello tonnato” from the bistro with veal, of course, combined with red tuna ventresca and accompanied by fregola sarda.
