Benoît Carcenat: “I’m proud of the work I’ve done!
With his sharp moustache and immaculate white chef’s jacket, Benoît Carcenat welcomes us to his home in Rougemont. In just four years, this gourmet abode has risen to the top of the Swiss gastronomic hierarchy. Alongside this blue-white-and-red-collared chef stands a team of young talents who have all contributed – at one time or another – to the success of this adventure. Unfortunately, fate decided otherwise and, against all expectations, the break-up was announced before the start of the summer in a terse, unbearably cold press release.
The reasons for this decision are specific to the protagonists involved, but we deeply regret it. While Benoît Carcenat and his staff continue to provide service until October 5, a 24th and final menu has just been released. An opportunity to return to the Valrose one last time under the Carcenat era. But rest assured, the chef has not said his last word, and his gastronomic future promises to be radiant. We’ll just have to be patient. Chef, it’s your turn…
What do you remember about your four years at Valrose?
After working in other people’s kitchens, I discovered that I was a chef in my own right. I started with a blank sheet of paper. Over time, I discovered a wonderful region, exceptional producers and customers who were as discreet as they were knowledgeable and demanding. I had to show my credentials as soon as I arrived. The most important thing: to say what you’re going to do and, above all, to do what you’ve said you’re going to do.
How did you build your style?
In fact, without really asking myself the question, we start with what we have on hand and, what we can’t find, we look a little further afield (but as little as possible). That said, the most important thing is to create and manage a menu, and the service that goes with it. Over the seasons, we’ve given more and more free rein to our imagination. In addition to our special menus, we have also created some thirty new menus.
Do you have a favorite season or dish?
To be honest, not really. As far as the dishes are concerned, I can distinguish the notion of preference between our feelings and those of the customer. Some creations were unanimously appreciated by our team, while the guests didn’t necessarily feel the same way. And vice versa. From memory, I think the Rubik’s Cube of tomato slices encasing a heart of shrimp and caviar tartar, or the onion gratinée will always be remembered. Above all, I discovered the pleasure of working with vegetables at any time of year.
Have the awards you’ve won confirmed your vision?
Maybe… even if I’m not waiting for the rewards to confirm my choices. Feeling recognized is gratifying, but when you’re working fifteen hours a day behind the stove, theoretically you should know whether you’ve found the right path or not. What I value, in addition to the feedback I get from my customers, and which I treasure, is the doubt that allows me to question myself constantly. Guides can’t provide this notion…
Josselin Jacquet in pastry-making, Victor Moriez in the kitchen and Mathieu Quetglas in the dining room – these are just some of the talents that have come to the fore alongside you. Has Le Valrose been a human adventure?
Essentially, and fortunately. You can’t do anything on your own. Even if we don’t always agree, and even if our paths diverge, the adventure is so much richer when we form a team. Each in their own way, they have all contributed to the success of the house. Some left to make way for others… that’s what life’s all about. I’d also like to pay tribute to the work of Mathieu Maeder and François Berger, who have also been with me since the beginning of this adventure. They are very different but very complementary.
How would you like to comment on the end of the Valrose chapter?
In view of the messages we have received, this news has had the effect of an earthquake. The reason for the departure was a disagreement on a number of issues. Differences of opinion due to certain misunderstandings meant that the adventure had to come to an end, so that everyone could follow the path that best suited them. In my opinion, the end was in sight, but I would have liked to finish the job. Without talking about a possible third star, we were ready to continue the creative process with a team as close-knit as it was motivated. We were always supported, but not always well understood. Even though I’m proud of the work we’ve done, I’m still left with a feeling of unfinished business.
How are you feeling?
I must have gone through a phase of denial before realizing and accepting this new situation. I’m firmly convinced that it’s a blessing in disguise. To date, I’m full of ideas and I’m galvanized by what’s coming up. We’ve received a lot of proposals for what’s next, but I’m giving myself time to finish the Rougemont job properly before considering what’s next. We owe it to our customers and to the whole region, which has welcomed us with dignity.
