The Dorian, an Italian-French hymn
The wind is blowing in Geneva on this January evening. When we arrive at 8:00 pm, Le Dorian is already packed for the evening’s coup de feu. What a joy it is to see this establishment rise from the ashes after years in the wilderness following the departure of Paolo Pettina, former owner of Le Dorian for 33 years. Today, customers laugh, drink and enjoy a cuisine that is both transalpine and French… always finely adapted to the palates of a discerning, well-traveled Genevan. The decor is a real success, with its three rooms and three atmospheres: the veranda, the dining room and the bar. Everything is here for a feast.
Barely six months have passed since Florian Le Bouhec took over Le Dorian. As usual, the chef has once again succeeded in transforming an establishment into a successful business. There’s still a long way to go, of course, but it’s clear that his consistently gourmet cuisine, based on brasserie-style dishes brought up to date, is proving increasingly popular. With the same pleasure as always, let’s indulge in the culinary creations of chef Andrea Branca, whose titles are already seducing us.
Puntarelle, a true tribute to Italy’s culinary heritage, is combined here with spinach and strips of Parmesan. A vegetable-focused starter that would have benefited from a little more flavor from the more pronounced anchovies. Despite its beautiful execution and visual appeal, the salty, marine kick was slightly lacking in conviction.
A transalpine interlude with a duo of fresh pasta dishes that are a delight to share. On one side, paccheri cacio e pepe, already a classic, perfectly al dente as it should be. Neither too little nor too much. On the other, calamarata with squid ink, octopus and guanciale are awe-inspiring. The pleasure is shared, and the combination of sea and meat works perfectly.
It’s hard to stop there, and the veal chop is the winner. Cooked pink as usual, enhanced by a nice reduction in meat juices, it’s escorted by glazed vegetables (which doesn’t mean they’re cold) and a real creamy purée. Don’t blame us for not succumbing to dessert. It’s already getting late and the first tables are starting to ask for the bill. We stay a little longer, to make the moment of friendly reunion, so dear and so rare, last a little longer. We laugh and enjoy the moments of happiness that only restaurants can provide.
Enjoy your meal!
