There’s no doubt about it: Ivan Baretti is a great chef. Too discreet? No doubt, but it’s hard to fault his shyness. While the rue Henri-Blanvalet is a hive of cocktail-loving night owls, the restaurant Tosca takes a back seat to the crowds on busy evenings. Under the same roof: two restaurants and transalpine cuisine. On one side is the Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, on the other the gourmet bistro. It’s on the bistro side at the

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