There are some dishes that leave a lasting impression on us, from the very first bite, with a rare intensity. Arctic char and celery, imagined by chef Benjamin Breton of Auberge de Lucingesis one of those unforgettable dishes. Behind this creation lies meticulous sourcing and a deep respect for the produce. The chef collaborates with Nicolas Vidal, an Arctic char breeder at the Archiane springs fish farm, a natural water circuit located at the highest point of the Vercors mountains. This rare fish, destined for only four restaurants in France, is slaughtered using the ikejime method, which preserves the fish’s gustatory qualities and allows it to mature for a fortnight to reveal all its subtlety.
To accompany it, the celery is roasted vertically, candied in a mixture of butter and oil. Its tender core contrasts with a slightly caramelized, almost burnt surface. The plate is served with two sauces with complementary profiles. On one side, a full-bodied celery jus, made from its skin and roots, cooked like a meat jus and deglazed with Savagnin and soy. Its depth and intensity are counterbalanced by a beurre blanc with Savagnin, which adds sweetness and acidity. The contrast of these two sauces, between light and shade, adds a poetic dimension to this dish. As a complement, char is also served in light and suave quenelles, accompanied by a chlorophyll of lovage and a brunoise of onions and celery. At the Auberge de Lucinges, chef Benjamin Breton offers us much more than just a dish: an immersion in his world, where terroir and finesse rhyme with elegance.

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