The Michelin recital

The Michelin recital

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

02 octobre 2023

The Red Guide's high mass once again took place at the École Hôtelière de Lausanne. Tears, joy, disappointment, happiness, surprises... the Michelin rollercoaster is here!

As is the case every year, the tension is palpable in the corridors of the prestigious École Hôtelière de Lausanne, which for the second year running is hosting the elite of Swiss “toques blanches”. Some chefs are dressed to the nines, others in sneakers, T-shirts and jeans. As in the kitchen, everyone has their own style. It’s in this climate of uncertainty and perplexity that the finest Swiss chefs come to attend the red guide’s annual recital. Apart from the notable absence of its head honcho, Gwendal Poullenec, the ceremony is in every respect in line with last year’s practice. The same podium, the same hall and the same presenter, giving the impression of déjà-vu.

Maxime Chatillon Photography / Yuttakan Pongkunsup

A taste of Bib

After the usual speeches to sponsors and the like, the bib gourmands were (quickly) put in the spotlight. It’s with great pleasure that these awards are presented, paying tribute to top-quality restaurants at more reasonable prices than their starred cousins. What a pleasant surprise it was for Thai restaurant Suahoy on rue Prévost-Martin to win this well-deserved distinction. Believe me, with this award, this spicy gourmet temple, which is still in its infancy, bodes well for the future. Congratulations to Sandrine Pally and Yuttakan Pongkunsup, for their exemplary career and deliciously spicy cuisine. The same admiration goes to chef Romain Desvenain at the Bistrot du Lion d’Or in Carouge, who continues to write a fine gourmet history in his restaurant in the Cité Sarde. Not far away, the Ivy 23 restaurant also won the same award.

As the spotlight continues to fall on sustainable gastronomy, nine new green stars are being awarded from Bern to Zurich, via Schwyz and Chandolin-près-Savièse. First drum roll in anticipation of the first stars. 19 new establishments have been awarded their first star, bringing the total number of one-star restaurants in Switzerland to 108. An exceptional and indisputable achievement, confirming the talent of our chefs and the richness of our terroir. Among them is chef Nicolas Darnauguilhem, rewarded for his exceptional cuisine of heart and character at La Pinte des Mossettes in the hills above Cerniat. It’s been a long time coming, but it’s finally here! After winning last year’s “étoile verte” award for his incredible commitment to proximity and seasonality, this talented chef has now won a star that had eluded him for several years.

Olivier Jean at the Atelier Joël Robuchon in Geneva

French-speaking winners

As the two stars approached, the atmosphere became more electric and heavy. But it was the tears of chef Olivier Jean of theAtelier Joël Robuchon at the announcement of his second star that marked his ascent to the podium, tears that this chef with the build of a rugby player couldn’t help holding back, releasing all the pressure of daily life and the weight of sacrifice. A faithful disciple of the man who gave his name to the Atelier in the heart of the Woodward Hotel, Olivier Jean continues to charm customers with his well-crafted, gourmet, bourgeois cuisine, adding a second star to Geneva’s skyline.

The word on everyone’s lips is: “ENFIN”! Seen by many as an incredible injustice last year, Meilleur Ouvrier de France and Valrose chef Benoit Carcenat has finally earned his second macaron. His entire team expressed immense joy at the announcement of this long-awaited second star. It’s a distinction richly deserved by the chef and his brigade in the village of Rougemont. It’s much more than a simple reward for a brilliant partnership; it’s a reward for top-flight cuisine and meticulous service under the leadership of Mathieu Quetglas, a victory for an entire region far beyond the village of Rougemont.

It’s a duo in the city as well as on stage that has reached the two-star podium. Sarah Benahmed and Franck Pelux, who are celebrating this wonderful award with their month-old daughter, are ecstatic after hearing the news at the École Hôtelière de Lausanne. It’s a gamble that has paid off for the Vaud palace, which relied on the couple from Strasbourg for its Table du Lausanne Palace.

Philippe Chevrier at Domaine de Chateauvieux.

Sad shocks

While the quartet of three-starred chefs remained unchanged from the previous vintage, the party was spoiled by a jolt in the hushed world of Switzerland’s toques blanches. Against all expectations, Domaine de Châteauvieux chef Philippe Chevrier lost a star at the ceremony. This is a major blow for the chef who has been promoting gastronomic excellence in the heights of Satigny for over 30 years. A trainer of talent, an entrepreneur at heart, a chef in love with true tasteful cuisine, Philippe Chevrier has been lighting up the Swiss sky with his talent and expertise since the very beginning. A message of support for him and the valiant team accompanying him on this gastronomic adventure. It’s also a difficult time for chef Marie Robert, whose star has been withdrawn from her Café Suisse in Bex.

The way back

It’s on the way back to Geneva that we can contemplate the gastronomic sunshine of a country like Switzerland. Seeing these men and women regale us for a day with their talent and creativity is a culinary gift of a lifetime. With its cultural diversity and immensely rich terroir, Switzerland more than ever has a card to play on the world’s gastronomic chessboard. It’s up to us to make it shine! Ladies and Gentlemen, thank you…