Marseille: Allô! Resto, Bobo

Marseille: Allô! Resto, Bobo

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

01 octobre 2020

Paris imposes quarantine on restaurants in Marseilles. One government decision too many for an industry already in distress. A political slap in the face of a health crisis.

Political slap in the face

Following a decision by the French Ministry of Health under the leadership of Olivier Véran, Marseille’s bars and restaurants have had to close their doors for two weeks from Sunday evening. A targeted political slap in the face to an entire profession desperately trying to recover after two and a half months of confinement. By way of comparison, imagine the closure of restaurants in Geneva, while those in Hermance, Versoix and Satigny remain open. Heresy! Even if these measures can be re-examined before the October 11 deadline, morale in the restaurant world is at an all-time low. Despite a class-action appeal to the Marseille administrative court lodged by Renaud Muselier, President of the Provence-Alpes-Côte-D’azur region, the situation remains tense in a city torn between respect for the law and the desire to break the rules.

@Christophe Simon / AFP

@Christophe Simon / AFP

Stunned by such a decision, the two-star chef Alexandre Mazziat triesin vain to absorb the news. “Morally and humanely, it’s a crushing blow, a decision that’s hard to digest because it remains incomprehensible,” he confides. As far as health is concerned, any prescribed information is immediately contradicted… giving way to an ambient perplexity, tending towards general mistrust. How can we tell the difference? With the possibility of a reconfinement hanging in the air like a cleaver, isn’t the French political management of Covid-19 leading to rebellion, even decadence and anarchy? Far from giving up, the chef takes a step back and assumes that it is necessary to close ranks in order to better prepare for a comeback. “We have a very important societal role to play in the proper functioning of our constitution. We must continue to be exemplary. Division breeds hatred and is detrimental to our peace of mind. I’m not saying we should close our eyes and say nothing. But at some point, it’s difficult enough as it is… I don’t want to add fuel to the fire”.

Respectable & Respectful

Even if a restaurant such as Alexandre Mazzia’s places daily orders, it’s impossible not to mention the food waste resulting from such a sudden closure. The impact is immediate, and the repercussions on suppliers are consequential. “Just as we depend on the producers, the artisans depend on us”. For the chef, the skies over the restaurant industry are stormy and the outlook more than gloomy. “With all this, the state is stigmatizing our profession and, above all, our professionalism. We are respectable people who respect our customers. The whole thing bores me to tears, and the political debate makes me laugh out loud. Julien Diaz, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant  Saisons, who describes the decision as unfair and incomprehensible. “It’s as if the virus had a notion of borders. It’s an aberration. I’m afraid this decision is political, not sanitary”.

Julien Diaz - Season.jpg

Defying the state

Excluding fixed costs, the restaurant owner will lose 30,000 euros over the closure period. “It’s not a question of money; if I’d wanted to be rich, I’d have gone into another line of work. It’s a question of principle. Where’s the respect in all this”? While the threat of fines and possible administrative closure hangs in the balance if the measures are not complied with, the restaurateur is going against the ministerial decision by remaining open to the public. Julien Diaz says he is ready to accept the consequences of his action, and refuses to give up. “Until someone explains the logic to me, I’ll stay open. Why us and not the cinemas, schools, theaters, swimming pools and, above all, restaurants within a few miles? It’s not a revolutionary quest on my part, but it’s the last straw.

Without going into conspiracy theory, it’s hard to understand such a decision. While Marseille City Council claims to support its restaurant owners by refusing to call in the municipal police in the event of refusal to comply, does it really support them? Has the necessary action been taken after deconfinement? Is the current decision a punishment for not respecting sanitary measures during the summer period? Let’s not forget that no one is immune to the Marseilles case, and that we must remain on our guard by respecting the measures laid down by the Confederation! I can’t wait for this whole story to be over…