Counter news
Taking a seat at the counter is not a trivial act. These places of choice have become coveted strategic positions within a restaurant. Whether it’s with your neighbors or the waitstaff, social exchange takes place through human interaction. Even if a bar separates us, the distance is broken. The major players in the restaurant industry are well aware of the social craze generated by these new architectural compositions, which have become the centerpieces of an establishment. From Joël Robuchon’s l’Atelier restaurant, via the unmissable Bombar, to the more discreet Japanese counter of the Sachi restaurant in the heart of Geneva’s Mandarin hotel, immersion in the wonderful world of the counter.
The counter at the Atelier Joël Robuchon ©Edouard Amoiel
From isakaya to tapas bar
Although a second Michelin star still glitters brightly aboveJoël Robuchon’s Atelier in Geneva’s The Woodward hotel, chef Olivier Jean has long since come down from his starry cloud. He knows that expectations are high and the pressure is ever-increasing. Having helped open seven ateliers, who better to talk about the man who democratized the counter than the disciple of the late Joël Robuchon. A forerunner in the field, the chef of the century revolutionized the world of gastronomy by simultaneously launching his first two Ateliers in Paris and Tokyo in 2003. Inspired by Japanese
It was a resounding success, with curious onlookers lining up on the sidewalk in the hope of dining in this gastronomic UFO. While the open kitchen concept offers total visibility, Joël Robuchon teaches his chefs to be more meticulous and to adapt their working methods to a completely open space. He instills in his teams a new way of moving, behaving and even speaking. As for the guests, the chef makes them aware of the beauty of the products served and the value of the profession of cook. “On the one hand, transmission in the service of education, and on the other, transparency in the service of clear-sightedness. By valuing products and people, he created a culinary ballet,” recalls Olivier Jean, still a commis at the time. The revolution was underway.
The Bombar counter ©PaolaCorsini
Theatrical approach
You only have to head for Geneva’s Place des Augustins on a Thursday evening to understand the buzz around Le Bombar. For five years now, Marc Popper and his team have been flying the flag for Geneva’s gastronomic scene. It’s clear that the counter is THE centerpiece. “The counter was an obvious choice right from the design stage. We even linked it to the name of the establishment,” recalls Marc Popper. While enjoying the intoxicating cuisine of Victor Freiburghaus and Alexandre Jeny, customers have an ideal place in the dining room. Like a control tower, the Bombar’s open kitchen pass is an extension of the long counter. The design of the décor resembles a stage where the customer becomes a spectator and the staff are the main actors. “Diners are in the front row of a play that is performed daily. But unlike in the theater, some customers who don’t know each other at the start of the meal often share a bottle of wine at the end of the evening. Interaction is crucial.
Back to the Right Bank, where another counter has been the talk of the town since it opened two years ago. In the heart of the Mandarin Oriental Geneva hotel, the Japanese restaurant Sachi has been the talk of the town ever since it opened its doors. This Japanese setting proudly boasts a counter dedicated entirely to the gastronomic delights of the land of the rising sun. “Even if the atmosphere is a little quieter than in other establishments, diners can still admire the chefs’ work. With the
The counter of the Sachi restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Geneva hotel
Human connection
Before the dexterity of these master chefs plays a gastronomic symphony open to the public. More popular than ever with culinary aficionados, the counter takes on its full meaning when chefs offer admiring customers freshly prepared sushi for immediate tasting. “That’s when the barriers come down and the human connection is at its best,” says chef and instigator Mitsuru Tsukada. At a time when relationships between people are disintegrating in favor of the virtual, the counter is surely the best way to recreate links and reconnect with the magic of a place called a restaurant.
