When Armel Bedouet gets carried away
It’s a rare occurrence for us to catch Armel Bedouet in the middle of a conversation with a customer sipping a drop of white wine. Rest assured, the chef of l’Aparté is not sitting down, but standing tall as usual in his chef’s coat. It’s early, the evening service hasn’t yet begun, which is surely why this reserved character allows himself a little deviation from his rigorous principles. We greet him and take our seats in his newly renovated setting. It’s a welcome change of scene, bringing a fresh air to a place that has never ceased to delight us since it opened. There’s no doubt that Armel Bedouet needed a change. This new lease of life in the dining room can only stimulate creativity in the kitchen. L’Aparté abandons its principles and really takes off.
Saint-Jacques en folie
Does Armel Bedouet still have something to prove? Not for us, of course, but for him. He’s one of those chefs who’s constantly challenging himself. This kind of stove-top poet is relentless in his approach, tirelessly reworking a menu to make it evolve with the seasons, the produce and his own desires… always on the lookout for subtle changes. We’re under the spell of the place. A real success story, combining intimacy, discretion and modernity. And above all, a degree of rigor and humility that matches the culinary vision of its leader. This new Aparté resembles Armel Bedouet’s cuisine, and vice versa. So let’s let ourselves be carried away by this contagious inspiration, let’s leave our lives outside this intimate setting and set off on a gastronomic adventure for the time of an… aside.
To our great delight, the chef is no exception to the rule, and comes to each table to tell the story of the culinary creations that are about to be served. As a first delicacy, dehydrated and rehydrated carrot with carrot juice and ponzu is enhanced with nori powder and escorted by a vinegar-fermented cream. An Asian-inspired dish that, with its engaging aromatic contrasts, surprises and announces an assertive commitment. Opposite styles with snacked scallops accompanied by a Swiss white miso mayonnaise, Granny Smith apple tartar with matcha tea powder and sudachi beurre blanc. To accompany this sweet masterpiece, a tartlet of scallops, matcha tea gel and caviar rises to the side. A subtle, elegant introduction that confirms the new dynamic in place. There’s still some sauce left, so we’ll enjoy it with a spoon!
Gastronomic trajectory
Will the roasted langoustine seduce us just as much? Served with trout roe, white vinegar gel and butternut coulis with ras-el-hanout and dry Valais bacon. By way of transition, this dish is undeniably a divinely well imagined culinary leap forward, making us (almost) forget the previous course. Low-temperature-cooked brill, seaweed tartar, lemon and dill oil, chanterelle mousseline and buckwheat potato tuile are served warm, but lack the sauce to continue the adventure. As for the roasted chamois saddle, it heralds the end of the savory sequences. This choice morsel is accompanied by a tartar of beet confit with balsamic vinegar and hibiscus gel. A wintry dish that brings out all the subtlety of this hunting delicacy.
As we succumb to the pear confit with oriental spice syrup and vanilla panacotta, it’s already time to take our leave and bring this aside to a close. Armel Bedouet juggles his gastronomic trajectory with audacity, passion and a hefty dose of technical skill… without ever neglecting gourmandise and generosity. It’s a feat that deserves to be said in more than just an aside…
