The Golden Wave: eternal splendour
As the sun sets over the Massif des Maures, Saint-Tropez plays host for an evening to the imposing ships that drop anchor in the gulf. A veritable open-air theater, the terrace of La Vague d’Or is dressed to the nines to welcome guests lucky enough to witness one of the finest gastronomic spectacles on offer. Every moment spent in this temple of goodness and beauty is a gift. A gastronomic offering so intense, so exciting and so masterful that the moment is savored with respect and humility towards the actors who do us the honor of sharing their undeniable talent. For one evening, let’s admire the culinary savoir-faire of an extraordinary team, which reaches its peak during the summer season.
Pines Parasols
The story could almost end there, as the gastronomic waltz is in a class of its own in a world of its own. Nothing is left to chance: neither the gestures of service, nor the folding of napkins, nor the kind words of the wait staff, nor the temperature of the wine…the list goes on. These culinary feats take place at the Le Cheval Blanc hotel – a palace owned by the LVMH luxury group. Behind this adventure are two men who are virtually inseparable, who have reached the pinnacle of their art without ever forgetting the shared humility that characterizes them.
On the stove side, Arnaud Donckele is, of course, a magician of sauces, a perfectionist of fish cooking and a perfectionist of plating. Thierry di Tullio, his alter ego in the dining room, is not to be outdone in his praise, extending the chef’s vision with class, panache and elegance right up to the majestic umbrella pines of the restaurant’s terrace. We feel a real sense of osmosis the first time we bite into the splendid lisette du grand large, accompanied by a variety of marinated Var tomatoes and a divine velvet of small blue fish from the open sea. Let yourself be carried away…
Vibrant emotion
“Surpris dans les failles rocheuses” (a magnificent choice of title on the menu), the red mullet and its toast of sea woodcock stand proudly at the center of the plate, topped with an elegant warm sabayon of red mullet that almost steals the show from the fish. Like the Pâte Zitone, a tribute to Jean-Louis Nomicos, one of the chef’s mentors, the turbot with marine plankton juice has become an essential marine tribute for Arnaud Donckele. Vibrant emotion when tasting the haliotis “al verde” broth with olive oil.
Created by the talented Boris Alliès, these crunchy pumps with oil and strawberries from Provence are a real treat, confirming that the end of the meal is nigh. How can we prolong it a little longer? But isn’t the magic and beauty of the moment in its transience? A special thought for Thibault Henry, our head sommelier, who accompanied us throughout the evening with precision and discretion. The sun has set, the room empties and the lapping of the water lulls our thoughts as the evening draws to a close. A Vague d’Or perhaps? A wave of happiness surely!
