The Bombar artist
He has “revolver eyes”; not the kind that flash when the pressure’s on, but the kind that look you right in the face. Victor Freiburghaus is not a talkative man, choosing his words in a calm, thoughtful tone. Wearing a blue apron as a business suit, he lets himself be guided through an interview that is as pleasant as it is surprising, without mastering the journalistic exercise. This chef, whose career is still in its infancy, looks good in his chef’s hat… and even if this outfit used to be the prerogative of chefs, the new generation prefers to swap the traditional clogs for trendier sneakers! Let’s take a look at the chef who waltzes around the Bombar’s dishes with disconcerting creativity.
Bombar
Channeled cook
Victor Freiburghaus was born into a family that was not very keen on the hotel business, but he is nonetheless passionate by nature. A Genevan at heart, he recalls with emotion the slices of veal with cream and risotto that his paternal grandmother used to prepare. As soon as he passed his baccalauréat, his rebellious side led him to take refuge in the world of saucepans. “I could never have accepted being cooped up in an office all day. Being a chef channels me and develops my creativity on a daily basis; I feel free. His studies at the
This was followed by a series of prestigious training courses, during which he acquired the culinary knowledge and techniques of the great chefs. His Parisian journey alongside chef Éric Frechon, in the kitchens of the three-starred L’
Bombar
Tacos cochinita
On this almost summery afternoon, a bewitching aroma spreads through the restaurant. As we take our seats at the bar, pig shoulders have been simmering for over twelve hours. Fleshy as it should be, the meat is garnished with tacos for the evening’s service, accompanied by a salsa verde, a few chillies and red onion pickles. This title sums up the culinary philosophy of the chef and the place: a resolutely modern cuisine where gastronomic tradition is assumed, where locality is a primary concern and respect for the seasons a priority. “Whatever the style of cooking, it can’t be good without knowing the basics. At Le Bombar, there’s no asparagus in summer and no tomatoes in winter. The cult of the product is at the heart of Victor’s approach and that of his partner Marc Popper, creator and owner of the place. A fillet of fera is elevated to the same status as a black truffle. Whatever the nobility of the product, the care taken in its preparation is identical; the pleasure is total, and it’s not about to stop!
