The birth of Arcadia
It is always a unique moment in itself to set foot on the floor of the hotel Byblos in the heart of Saint-Tropez village. A suspended moment, bordering on the unreal, where time seems to stand still. Years go by, fashions change and the Byblos remains proudly anchored on its hill overlooking the Place des Lices. An historic landmark for almost 60 years, the establishment has evolved with the times, discreetly and with palatial elegance and codes, subtly intertwined with a hint of typically Tropezian madness and casualness. Right by the legendary pool, the Arcadia restaurant is a hymn to Provençal and Mediterranean culinary culture. Thanks to the impressive gastronomic culture of Executive Chef Nicola Canuti, we discover a tribute to regional cuisine interpreted in a contemporary way.
Edouard Amoiel
Toque blanche
With white tablecloths and tableware specially designed for the venue by ceramist Agnès Sandahl, the Arcadia restaurant is sober, refined and in harmony with its hotel surroundings. With an impressive résumé, chef Nicola Canut set down his kitchen knives in the Var region last year. With his chef’s hat screwed on his head and immaculate white apron, his stature stands out amid the long dresses and high heels that flock to the adjacent bar. But this chef, who has previously worked alongside Alain Ducasse and Roger Vergé, and who has traveled the world of kitchens from London to Monaco to Manila, emerges unabashedly to greet the seated guests.
With the hotel’s own vegetable garden, where tomatoes, beans and zucchinis are grown alongside Provencal herbs, the menu begins its story with a focus on farcis. Emblematic of Provençal gastronomy in the same way as artichokes à la barigoule or soupe au pistou, this appetizer perfectly combines gourmet pleasure and tradition. Whether reinterpreted with goat’s cheese and red bell pepper coulis, rock fish and anchovy sauce or veal, foie gras and Colonnata bacon, the original flavors are there for all to enjoy.
Edouard Amoiel
Tuna with pepper
A crunchy artichoke salad plays spoilsport with calamari sautéed with bottarga, a few strips of pecorino cheese and arugula. Crab salad with sorrel sorbet on a bed of tomato gazpacho is a delicious and refreshing interval. As for the main course, it’s the Mediterranean tuna concocted by Nicola Canuti that really stands out. The chef takes his inspiration from the traditional steak au poivre to create this marine version, with a chimichuri sauce blended beforehand that coats the pinkish fish to the core. A real success! A veritable hymn to the South of France, the traditional bouillabaisse is revisited with rock fish (capon, cuttlefish, red mullet and meagre) combined with artichokes barigoule. For sweet creations, pastry chef Geoffrey Turpin brilliantly rekindles the flame of the Norwegian omelette with pistachio and strawberry ice creams.
The Arcadia restaurant has everything it takes to shine brightly in the tropézien gastronomic sky. Nicola Canuti and his team deliver a gastronomic score that’s fair, kind-hearted and sincere, honoring the richness and variety of Provençal and Mediterranean cuisine. Ad Usque Fidelis!
Arcadia, Hôtel Byblos, 20 avenue Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France. Phone: +33 4 94 56 68 00.
