Table Brute, the natural way
To compete with the heatwave, Lucas Desbiolles presents a fresh menu from starter to dessert, on the Rue du Prince in Geneva. The titles, reflecting the new direction taken by this neighborhood bistro, are straight to the point.
Duck Tataki
Starters alternate betweenArtichoke, Three-Color Tomatoes, Shrimp Carpaccio and Duck Tataki. It’s the latter that wins out, with its red meat demonstrating mastery of cooking, the green of the edamame beans and the pink of the onion pickles, making for a colorful plate. The whole dish looks good, but wakame seaweed, not specified in the label, intrudes and may not appeal to everyone. To the taste, the naturalness of the accompaniment finds its place, enhanced by the intensity of the meat. It’s a surprisingly well-mastered pairing.
On the main course, we offer a range of meat and fish dishes: lamb, trout, poultry supreme… and a vegetarian suggestion: petit-pea royale, in the form of gourmet pea flan, preserved lemons, roasted hazelnuts and zaatar-seasoned serac. A fresh dish, enhanced by citrus and cheese. The interplay of textures is easy to appreciate, although the presentation may make the dish difficult to eat. As for the flavors, they deserve to be spiced up further to make the pairing unforgettable.
Basil jelly
No false notes for dessert. A lemon and basil tart, simple yet surprising from the very first bite. The basil jelly turns the acidity of the lemon into a perfectly balanced combination, bringing the meal to a light conclusion.
Overall, “Table Brute” fulfills its mission well: to exploit the naturalness of ingredients by proposing daring combinations. However, the whole would benefit from a little more pizzazz to let all the flavors explode and release even more of the creativity of a talented chef… Let’s wait and see what he has in store for us on his next menus!
