Sensations at La Jonction
Making new discoveries in Geneva reassures me! These moments off the beaten track allow me to go in search of unusual restaurants making their way within the surrounding local gastronomic microcosm. Unearthing pearls keeps my mind open to the world and to others. While habits and rituals are an indefatigable part of our daily lives, travel (even in one’s own city) is an inexhaustible source of inspiration and reinforces my belief that Geneva has never been so culinarily exciting.
Brocante atmosphere
It’s around the bend in rue du Stand that my writing takes me. After skirting the Palladium – taking me back to a time that those less than 20 years old can’t possibly know – I (re)find the recent buildings that stand up to those on Quai du Sujet. It’s a war of genres and Geneva’s architectural styles in all their splendor. In the middle of the Jonction eco-neighborhood lies the
It’s when you arrive early at a restaurant that you can soak up its energies, watch a service begin and admire (or not) the mise en place take shape. It’s like a theater with marvelous actors re-enacting a play in front of spectators eager for thrills. With a kitchen that opens onto a warm, intimate room, the place has the air of a flea market, where every element seems to have been carefully hunted down. Half-ordinary, half-bouillon, this space is a mix of genres that leaves no one indifferent.
Frizzy Sparassis
In the kitchen, chef Eugen Ulko seems a little restless this evening. As a menu reaches out to us, we’re not fazed by his nocturnal energies. Homemade bread graces the table, and an amuse-bouche of Sparassis crépu mushrooms sets the ball rolling, followed by a goat’s cheese with wild blueberries giving it a slightly purplish hue.
With the autumn season in full swing, the chef offers his favorite orange bolets, traditionally sautéed and raw, escorted by a soft-boiled egg from the Lignon farm. While an eggplant covered with thin slices of tomato and topped with a gazpacho-like coulis reminds us that summer is perhaps not quite over, it’s the meat confit, purée and currant with salt that confirms that we’ve officially changed seasons. Wonderful delicacies.
Disoriented…
What can I say about this dinner? We came away from Artemisia’s confused, almost bewildered. While the chef’s talent is undeniable, his moods that evening somewhat tarnished our moment. There’s no need to hold this against him, but it’s hard not to point it out. Nonetheless, Eugen Ulko offers a disconcertingly erudite cuisine with an obvious, bewitching technicality. With a natural wine list, you’ll have to return to Artemisia with more peace of mind.
