Plant acrobatics by Andres Arocena
The atmosphere is subdued, the decor sober and elegant, the service impeccable. The sommelier comes to guide us in our choice of wine, then the menu begins with a selection of pintxos that arrive with great fanfare: everything is as beautiful as it is promising. We get off to a great start with the spherification of olives, like an explosion of tapenade on the palate, as surprising as it is delicious. Next comes the pan con tomate with piperrak peppers, which bring a tangy rather than spicy flavor that’s very pleasant. Finally, a dome of candied peppers resting on a shortbread crust, perfectly realized and simply exquisite.
Trompe-l’œil
The first course is a fresh aguachile, reminiscent of gazpacho, but with Latin flavors thanks to avocado, lime and jalapeños. The dish is topped with a splendid trompe-l’oeil of mixed tomatoes and chipotle, with just the right amount of lamb’s lettuce. All around, charcoal peanuts add a crunchy touch, and the whole thing is a delight.
This is followed by a zucchini flower cooked in tempura for added crunch. The lemon ricotta filling enhances the flavor of the flower without overshadowing it. This bonbon rests on a melting caponata and a zucchini-mint velouté. Perfectly mastered flavors that take us straight to Italy, a real gem.
Wonderful journey
The panko-breaded eggplant arrives, melt-in-the-mouth on the inside and crispy on the outside, the interplay of textures perfect. It’s accompanied by a vibrant pesto, a labneh tzatziki and, incredibly, a succulent eggplant purée with pine nuts. A bright red piquillo bell pepper coulis adds a sweet, fruity touch. Each bite takes us on a journey between Greece, Italy and the Basque Country. A true marvel.
On the sweet side, the celery predessert intrigues, then seduces. A soft, enveloping cream base, topped with a refreshing sorbet, all with a light, perfectly measured taste of celery. A fine balance between boldness and indulgence, we’d like more.
Grand finale
The grand finale is the strawberry dessert: a work of art. While the eyes are delighted by this spectacle, the taste buds are equally delighted. A powerful strawberry sorbet, a delicate basil sorbet, a trompe-l’oeil strawberry and freeze-dried strawberry nuggets. An explosion of flavors with a perfect dose of indulgence! A real success story.
Chef Andres Arocena’s menu, specially designed for Veggie Week, is a genius celebration of vegetables. The Mediterranean is present on every plate, with a complexity of flavors and textures proving that haute vegetal cuisine has nothing to envy from meaty classics.
