Passion Châteauvieux
As its name suggests, Domaine de Châteauvieux is an estate, an independent manor house that belongs to no large group and is not dependent on any hotel chain. This gastronomic temple standing proudly on the hills of Satigny is a part of us, a part of our Geneva history. Its captain, too, has been part of our world for over three decades. His career is unique in the muffled world of Geneva’s toques, and even far beyond our canton. Philippe Chevrier is touched, and so are we. Philippe Chevrier is determined to fight, and so will we, alongside him, from near and far. Philippe Chevrier is already rolling up his sleeves, and we’ll be there to support him, each in our own way. A thought is enough, words count… it’s the beginning of a new path.
Shots fired
Crossing the threshold into the kitchen of Domaine de Châteauvieux, it’s at that moment that you realize the concentration and self-sacrifice required to serve at such a high level of gastronomic excellence. Although he has extended his empire to the four corners of the city of Calvin, Philippe Chevrier has always been present when he and his brigade come under fire. A demanding captain, he knows he’s the one who instills the necessary strength and leads his white-jacketed troops to the only victory: to bring happiness to his customers who have come to sit down for a meal.
While Damien Coche, faithful second in command at all times, juggles timers programmed to the second, to perfect the cooking of a poularde truffée sous la peau or a saddle of venison, the war cries of a close-knit brigade can be heard simultaneously. Yes chef!” resound in unison as the chef knots his blue apron and reads out the order forms. What a kitchen, what an atmosphere… what a job! Dishes that will be served by Esteban Vallé, the estate’s long-time manager, who recently won a Gault&Millau award for his incredible work in the kitchen. Slicing, flambéing, carving… he’s the representative of a know-how in need of recognition.
A kitchen…
The news broke on Monday September 2, just after the Guide Rouge ceremony, held once again at the École Hôtelière de Lausanne. Cell phones rang and rumors flew. Some thought it was a bad joke. Unfortunately, this was not to be. The Michelin Guide has taken aim at a chef who is appreciated by all, for his seasonal cuisine, based on products and emotions. A generous, tasty and intoxicating cuisine. A cuisine of the heart, which seduces the gourmand and charms the gourmet. A formative cuisine whose role is to pass on knowledge that is on the way out. A cuisine that prefers sauces simmered overnight to powdered sauces diluted in water. A cuisine that cooks in ovens, casseroles, over coals or on spits, not sous-vide. A cuisine where products are selected without concession, with as much respect for a celeriac rabe as for a grain of caviar. A cuisine of choice, with a menu that includes starters, main courses and desserts, rather than an imposed menu that forces customers to accept the chef’s personal desires, which are sometimes diametrically opposed to their own.
Questions
In the wake of Michelin’s decision to take away a star from the chef and his estate, what message does the company want to send to a whole generation of chefs eager for reality TV instead of hard work? What is the guideline that an establishment must adopt to be in the good books of the red bible? If the values of an establishment like Satigny’s are no longer recognized by the Michelin man, how can we understand the policies of an institution that sets the pace in the world of “toques blanches”? How can we justify a model of opacity in a world of total transparency? An opacity which, as we know, is skilfully maintained.
Isn’t it time we had a glimpse of clarity? And above all, how can we be sure that those who judge and sanction are really empowered to do so? Are all Michelin Guide inspectors really entitled to make such decisions, with all the repercussions we know about? Unfortunately, these questions will remain unanswered… But it’s certain that even with one less star, Domaine de Châteauvieux will continue to sparkle in the Geneva sky and, above all, in our hearts.
