“Momo in the kitchen
We lost sight of him, but never forgot him. By force of circumstance, fate perhaps, life surely… Muhamed Muratovic had fallen off our gastronomic radar for a few springs. For several years, the itinerant cook had been working alongside a number of chefs, all of whom diagnosed him as an obvious talent. Never willing (or able) to put down his knives for long, he moved from house to house in search of some form of allegiance. This is to misunderstand the character, who is not one to let himself be tamed. Momo, as he’s known to his friends and family, is looking for a new culinary home in which to express his talent, and thanks to his friends he’s now following a clear culinary path. Has he freed himself in order to blossom? So far, so good…
Leading pack
Muhamed Muratovic’s talent is undeniable. Finding him behind the stove is always an undisguised pleasure, because Geneva needs more than ever to retain the talent that makes modern, committed gastronomy shine. With his attractive cuisine and appealing combinations, Momo is one of the leading young chefs so dear to the City of Calvin.
Martin Regianni, MiFood MiRaisin’s owner, was not mistaken about the chef’s culinary potential. They know each other, they like each other, they follow each other’s careers and they know how to keep their place on either side of the kitchen pass. As sole owner of his Eaux Vives vessel – until then exclusively a natural wine bar with a few nibbles – Martin took over the adjoining arcade at the end of 2022 with the idea of turning it into a gourmet table. The place is sober but warm. No frills on the horizon… not in the decor, and certainly not in the food. A culinary approach in tune with the times; on the menu, just three words, separated by slashes, define the components of the dishes. Let’s eat…
Leeks & Kiwis
First surprise: the sourdough bread, accompanied by a raw-milk butter, is a delight. As a preamble, the crumbled crabmeat is guided by a few radish petals, a light miso mayonnaise and lemon citron. An appetizing and tasty creation. More committed, the knife-cut beef tartare is draped with Colonnata bacon and spiced up with a few anchovies. An incisive and direct creation. A reinterpretation of a bistro classic, leek vinaigrette is escorted by haddock and kiwi. A stunningly elegant work. To follow, a magnificently pearly cod breast escorted by bimi broccoli and enhanced by a miso veal jus completes this gourmet odyssey.
As our two spoons dive shamelessly into a dense chocolate mousse, topped with olive oil and fleur de sel, contemporary bistro bliss is well and truly at 4 chemin Neuf. Muhamed Muratovic is turning the culinary corner with panache, and has many more surprises in store for us in the months ahead. Ask him if he’s happy to find the sound of pots and pans in a boiling kitchen… and you’ll get the answer in his smile.
Table de MiFood MiRaisin, 4 chemin de Neuf, 1207 Geneva. Tel: 022 700 58 70
