Michel Guérard: always at the top of his game
An indisputable figure in modern cuisine, and the founding father of slimming cuisine, the three-starred chef has been pursuing his quest for excellence for over forty years. Indeed, he attributes his success to “not much, just knowing how to count to ten”. A lover of life, Monsieur Guérard was destined, in his early youth, to become a doctor or to take orders, before settling on cooking, which is just as beneficial to the soul as it is to the body.
Silky crab pannequet © Jessica Bertoncini
Initially opting for pastry-making, a discipline in which he earned the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1958, the chef also trained as a chef during his service in the French Navy. After serving as head pastry chef at the Crillon and the Lido, he became Jean Delaveyne’s second-in-command at the Camélia. In 1965, Monsieur Guérard set up on his own and opened the legendary Pot-au-Feu, a meeting place for all the big names of the day, which was awarded two stars in the Guide Rouge. Madly in love with Christine, his future wife, he followed her to Eugénie-les-Bains in 1974. Together, they restored this historic site to the splendor it enjoys today. Seeking to link his profession to spa life, he set about making gastronomy therapeutic: this was the beginning of Grande Cuisine Minceur.
It is taught at the Michel Guérard cooking school, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Here, the chefs of today and tomorrow are trained in the culinary art that has become curative. Always following his own path, and not that of the trends he invents and reinvents, Monsieur Guérard recognizes only one considerable difficulty in his profession: “keeping it simple”. The man for whom “cooking is theater” never ceases to offer the world grandiose performances in which he plays his role to perfection, always at the top of his game.
Mother-of-pearl whiting in blond melba © Jessica Bertoncini
Le grand restaurant
Redesigned by Michel Guérard and his team by mutual agreement during the closure due to the pandemic, the structure of the gastronomic restaurant has been revamped to offer an ever more subtle experience. Now housed in the historic salons of the Impératrice, the Michelin-starred restaurant promises a timeless voyage of unforgettable flavors in a most enchanting setting. It’s in front of the library, where the portrait of Empress Eugénie proudly stands, that the discovery of the grand “enchanted palace” menu created by Chef Hugo Souchet begins. The ball can then be set in motion, orchestrated by an expert service that’s always warm and welcoming.
Local gems such as Landes asparagus grilled with girolles, velvet pignon and lichettes of foie gras give us a glimpse not only of the region’s richness, but also of the talent of the hands that have sublimated these products. The famous “tourne-feu” lobster, smoked over an open fire in a marine broth, is a true feat of the chef, who subjugates the treasures of the sea in their simplest form. The young pigeon on coals, foie gras burnt with sugar, citron velvet is exquisite. Perfectly cooked, it delivers a powerful flavor and a smooth melt-in-the-mouth texture. Finally, the meal comes to a gentle close with the Marquis de Béchamel’s unctuous entremet nuage, whose balance and lightness leave us breathless. Joined by the food and wine pairing, a creation of sommelier Laetitia Boiton, the menu was embellished by nectars with discreet labels and remarkable aromas. The epic concludes with a final raspberry picked from the tree of delights, and it’s time to leave this enchanted palace.
Young pigeon on the coals © Jessica Bertoncini
La Ferme aux Grives
In a charmingly rustic setting, the building features a huge fireplace housing the rotisserie, the farm’s centerpiece, preceded by the mythical, brightly-colored vegetable log. The festivities begin with the amuse-bouche: gougère soufflée from the Auberge and dry sausage from Les Aldudes. This is followed by a raviole of lobster and gambas with spring onion, carcass juices in vinaigrette, with strong flavours and a remarkable melt-in-the-mouth texture. Finally, the spit is ready to reveal some of its secrets with the cochon de lait de l’âtre (suckling pig), stuffed as if in castille, with golden, crisp skin and juicy, flavorful flesh, a tribute to rich, authentic local cuisine.
Almost stealing the show from the main courses are the side dishes: exquisite mashed potatoes with butter and a timeless penne gratin with cream of mushroom soup, taking us back to our fondest childhood memories. Perfectly executed, the thoughtful service unfolds with gusto throughout the feast, breathing new life into this place from another time.
