Meyhanè, mezzes from Istanbul to Geneva
Originally, the Meyhanè is a traditional Turkish establishment serving local drinks. Known in Istanbul as a place to party, drink alcohol and eat mezze, what does Saygin Sun’s Geneva version of the restaurant have in store for us? The front door reads “Brasserie d’Istanbul”. Inside: subdued lighting, wood furniture, tangerine-colored tiles and Turkish music.
Mezzes, a story of sharing
As is the custom, this meal is all about sharing. The menu features a variety of hot and cold mezzes. It’s worth noting, however, that the cold starters are exclusively vegetarian. Let’s start with this colorful ensemble: saksuka, Cretan ezme, zucchini mücver and lentil dumplings.
Served with pita bread, let’s embark on a gustatory journey to the heart of Turkey. Accustomed to the traditional North African chakchouka, the Turkish version served cold takes us by surprise. The ratatouille of eggplant, green bell pepper and tomato purée is a clever blend of summer flavors. Cretan ezme is similar, with a spicy blend of red peppers, feta and garlic. On the other hand, the sweetness of lentil and bulgur dumplings and zucchini mücver served on a bed of yogurt are enhanced by a pronounced dill flavor.
A varied menu, from rakis to mezzes
Meyhanè meaning “house of wine”, we expect a wide choice of spirits, and we’re not disappointed: wines, beers, digestifs, rakis and aperitifs, from France, Switzerland and Turkey, there’s something for everyone. But now it’s time to sample our mezzes… Served on individual plates, the “shareable” aspect is a little lost. Let’s concentrate on the kadinbudu, breaded dumplings of ground beef. Coated with crunchy breadcrumbs, they enclose a melting center. The mixture of minced meat and bulgur is spiced up with a tangy, fruity, sumac-like spice.
Back to the titles… we also have fish, but only one vegetarian hot dish. Unfortunately, the selection of side dishes is rather limited: salad and mashed potatoes only. We conclude this gustatory journey with a Turkish coffee and a set of traditional desserts. Saygin Sun has succeeded in making Meyhanè a convivial space where flavours, atmosphere and the clatter of cutlery merge, joyfully reminiscent of his native land. We can’t wait to see what he has in store for us next!
