Mapo voyageur
It’s a pleasure to walk through the door of the Mapo restaurant in Chêne-Bougeries. A light, soothing atmosphere envelops diners from the moment they step inside. It doesn’t take much to feel at home in an establishment. Is it simply the decor? A smiling welcome? Appropriate background music? An attractive menu? It’s all part of the magic of the world of gastronomy… an extra touch of soul that is sometimes inexplicable, but seductive.
Edouard Amoiel
Funny ladies
But not everyone applies this recipe for stability. Mapo is a couple affair. As is often the case, he’s behind the stove and she’s at the front of the stage. Here, the balance lies in this wonderful duo who steer through the storms with brio. Even if life isn’t a long, quiet river, this bistro meets the requirements for success that most newcomers to the restaurant business lack, with one key factor: consistency! Emmanuelle and her team offer rigorous yet relaxed service, without becoming overly formal or overly familiar. These “funny ladies” brighten up the dining room with passion and precision.
As for the cuisine, Paul-Etienne and his brigade have come up with a number of new dishes, while reassuring diners with the emblematic dishes that have built the house’s reputation. Alongside the unmissable “Crying Tiger” beef with Thai condiments, the elegant salmon gravlax with sesame and wasabi sauce still tops the menu. The truffle taco with mozzarella, parmesan, arugula and citrus fruits, or the gourmet mushroom tartelette with dill emulsion, are hard to resist. Winter love at first sight for the lamb shoulder confit, its nashi pear with star anise, a fearsome lightly spiced lamb jus and a subtle Mapo-style harissa pepper purée.
Edouard Amoiel
Talent for success
Even if the bosses weren’t there on the evening of our visit (yes, a modern restaurateur has the right to be), Mapo is still spinning to the beat of the cutlery and flying off to rich and varied gourmet horizons. Even if we’re convinced that the chef hides many more culinary resources under his chef’s hat, the talent is already there at Mapo.
