Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons: a missed appointment
The estate of Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons is a typically “British” country haven where classicism meets a certain form of refinement from across the Channel. Lost on the outskirts of Oxford, this house was entirely imagined by a chef who was a pioneer in vegetable gardening and the Anglo-Saxon notion of “farm to table”. It represents the vision of one man, chef Raymond Blanc, who for over four decades has been making his mark on the culinary skies of Her Majesty’s Kingdom, alongside the other Frenchies in the Roux family, at Le Gavroche in London and the Waterside Inn in Bray. We can only salute the foresight and self-sacrifice of this very likeable chef, but it has to be said that this charming manor house lives on its achievements and maintains its reputation thanks to its glorious past.
Wine-growing iPad
Even though the sun is struggling to shine, this late July day is bathed in a gentle warmth. A stroll through the vegetable gardens and grounds of this exceptional estate is a moment of tranquility and contemplation, reconciling us with the elements and heralding a long-awaited dinner. We take our seats in the imposing dining room, with its impressive number of covers for a restaurant awarded two Michelin stars. The wine list, available exclusively on Ipad (a modern paradox in an environment that cultivates the past), is a mix of overpriced wine references, old vintages and outdated labels. The sommelier, moreover, neglects the art of pouring the correct amount of wine, contenting himself with quickly filling our glasses to do the same with the other guests.
Doubt suddenly creeps in. What if we were wrong? What if the reputation of this coveted place was a cleverly orchestrated media affair? The chef is present in the dining room, not in a kitchen jacket but in a navy-blue blazer. He sits in his restaurant with guests throughout the evening. Given the prices charged, let’s hope for their sake that their meal is at the expense of the princess (or prince, in this case). Even if the scene is common practice in the restaurant world, it’s no less surprising these days.
Soufflé in homage
Zucchini flowers garnished with lobster stuffing and a few vegetables make their appearance, and we remain perplexed by this starter which, far from being bad is, how can I say… disappointing for the place, the reputation and the prices. The poached turbot is of the same ilk. This noble fish doesn’t take any marine height and basks in a sort of lemony beurre blanc that’s far too liquid. The potatoes are undercooked and underpeeled on the side, topped with a few grains of caviar that are not large enough (and absolutely unnecessary). A tribute to France with an elegant, restorative raspberry soufflé that closed a meal without adding any extra soul.
It would be wrong not to salute the work accomplished and admire the vision of a chef who has left his mark on English culinary history. Known and recognized by his peers, Raymond Blanc has (surely) made his dream come true, but has failed to satisfy ours during this gastronomic interlude.
