Le Cheval Blanc, Basel’s discipline and precision
Like the Palace in Gstaad or the Beau-Rivage in Ouchy, the hotel Les Trois Rois is one of the finest jewels in the Swiss hotel crown. No doubt about it. Without ostentation, this establishment lives a quiet life along the Rhine with discreet luxury and an established reputation. This jewel of a hotel houses an intimate gourmet restaurant, Le Cheval Blancwhich has been awarded three Michelin stars. On board, chef Peter Knogl offers French-inspired cuisine with a classic approach that matches the ambiance of a palace in every respect.
Human warmth
White tablecloth, imposing chandelier, center console, gray walls… the atmosphere is strict to the point of losing its soothing quality. We’re looking for human warmth. Between tuxedos for some and suits for others, the staff is dressed entirely in black, further reinforcing the rigidity of the premises. As we take our seats, our faces remain marbled and there’s not a smile to brighten them. Will the choice of wine change the attitude of our protagonists? We receive the menu with disconcerting seriousness. At this point, we’re surprised and almost embarrassed to be here. Is the kitchen the same as the dining room? Doubts start to creep in…
There’s no question of being intimidated, not by the setting and certainly not by the black-clad staff. Let’s get back to reading the short, easy-to-read menu, dominated by noble products worthy of a palace. Foie gras, tourteau, lobster, saint-pierre, turbot, veal fillet and, of course, wagyu beef. The titles are in line with what you’d expect from a restaurant of this level, but they too lack appeal. If there’s no warm charm to be found, well, let’s go and find it!
Lobster & veal
My travelling companion’s masterful choice of a Cervaro della Sala 2020, an Italian white wine that relaxes the atmosphere with its finesse. Let’s start with the crab served on a tomato jelly and a few touches of jalapeño and avocado mousse. We’re pleasantly surprised by the dish’s design, which stands out from its surroundings. The freshness of this starter subtly prolongs summer on our plates. The Breton lobster is a revelation, both in terms of its perfect cooking and the unctuousness of its sauce, both creamy and frothy, all perfectly executed by chef Peter Knogl. We’re on cloud nine.
Although the Simmental veal is served unaccompanied, the execution is no less accomplished. The meat is perfectly cooked, enhanced by an artichoke cream. We ordered “à la carte”, but were surprised by the small quantities served, normally more suited to a menu. We’ll be leaving light on our feet.
Basel tour
Our journey through Basel becomes lighter and smoother as one dish follows another. It’s hard to know whether the meal reflects a true image of the establishment? Even if haute gastronomy is defined by innumerable codes and rules, it is nevertheless necessary for it to adopt a pleasant, lighter style. And while there were no false notes in the Cheval Blanc’s gastronomic score, we would have preferred the symphony’s interpretation to have a more joyful character.
