La Pinte suits him so well!
All gourmet neophytes in search of fine dining will tell you: getting to the Pinte des Mossettes is a journey in itself. Not the most unpleasant, but the quest for good taste in this case involves a verdant and slightly winding mountain itinerary. This Pinte has to be earned! And so much the better. It’s as if the inaccessibility of the place multiplies the effervescence of a lunch. As well as being charming, this restaurant is lively. Positive energies emanate from this unusual place, so far removed from everyday city life. For chef Nicolas Darnauguilhem, this environment is conducive to calm, as he swaps Geneva’s asphalt for the peaks of Fribourg. A wise decision, as La Pinte suits him so well!
Edouard Amoiel
Cooks in the dining room
On arrival, an imposing mound of logs is neatly arranged as a rampart. Simply push open a door built into this wooded fortification to enter the kingdom. Like a protective totem, the immense chestnut tree stands proudly on the small terrace. As a light breeze rises, amuse-bouches are served in this haven of country peace. To the delight of our guests, it’s the chefs who bring this gourmet farandole to the dining room. Who better to decipher the dishes than the creators themselves? A tuile of polenta with a tomato-honey condiment and fennel flower opens the ball, before giving way to a roll of pumpkin encasing a chopped beef with Botzi pear and horseradish.
Nicolas Darnauguilhem is not one to make things easy for himself. Perfectionist to the very tip of his knives, he delivers a score of beauty in total harmony with himself, his culinary philosophy and the surrounding nature. While rye bread, two farmhouse butters and a head cheese decorate the table, an overnight candied beet is served with a pumpkin seed elixir and a poppy seed elixir… enhanced with verjuice. A sweet and fruity contribution. Cold wheat and buckwheat noodles sit atop a bed of barbecued eggplant, marinated with fermented mushrooms and miso. The sauce is a broth that picks up the eggplant and mushrooms, all drizzled with walnut oil and a few agastachios to add a touch of anise and mint. Sublime.
Edouard Amoiel
Watermelon and bell pepper
On the fish side, the chef and his brigade give pride of place to salmon trout. Confit in rapeseed oil, topped with garden flower petals, the sauce is relaxed with serac cheese and shiso (a mixture of mint and basil). A graceful dish that once again demonstrates Nicolas Darnauguilhem’s talent. As a savory finale, the chef proposes a piece of braised beef, topped with nettle tempura, a few strips of almost raw turnip and a condensed leek, lovage and oregano jus. An elegant creation that bewitches and challenges. Watermelon and bell bell pepper round off this sweet odyssey. Light and delicate, with fruity ice cream and Gruyère double cream.
At last, Nicolas Darnauguilhem seems to have found his gastronomic oasis and some form of inner peace. Long misunderstood during his time in the City of Calvin, he is now rekindling his overflowing creativity in the midst of pastures and soon-to-be snow-capped peaks. A culinary plenitude emanates from his menu that highlights locality and seasonality. What a pleasure it is to see this talented chef in tune with his new life!
La Pinte des Mossettes, 8 route des Ecehelettes, 1654 Cerniat. Phone +41 26 927 20 97
