La Mirande: historic dinner
Entering La Mirande is like reliving a piece of French history. La Mirande, built in the 14th century, was home to many historical figures. First of all, that of Cardinal de Pellegrue, nephew of Clement V. In 1653, the house was sold to Claude de Vervins, a lawyer. Two centuries later, it became “Hôtel Pamard”, before lending its setting to Jacques Rivette’s film “La Religieuse”, adapted from Diderot’s novel. In 1987, the Stein family acquired the property and restored the building, preserving its authentic atmosphere and restoring the soul of this forgotten historic site.
A chef rooted in his terroir
In the kitchen, after 4 years of loyal service with Pierre Gagnaire, Florent Pietravalle began his career as a chef at La Mirande. There, he developed a singular summer menu, oscillating between the richness of the Mediterranean and the terroir of Provence. Originally from Montpellier, a hundred kilometers from Avignon, he is deeply attached to this region and makes it a point of honor to forge links with local, sustainable agriculture. This long-term project will take him almost two years, during which he will meet and select the producers who, in his words, “make him grow every day”. From Mathieu Chapel’s local peaches in Grau-du-Roi, to Fabien Dumont’s vegetables in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, to Didier Celerin’s pigeons in Sarrians, these products accompany him daily in his culinary creations and research. A green star and the Ecotable label reward his authentic approach.
Mediterranean notebook
The chef’s creations celebrate the Mediterranean, Provence and their borders, through a cuisine of pleasure and unbridled freedom. The amuse-bouches, served in aperitif sequence, set the tone. The oyster, accompanied by a cucumber and caviar gel, is a pure pleasure from the very first bite. It is followed by a shellfish, X.O sauce and beurre blanc, which introduces us to the chef’s cuisine, always in a harmonious balance between land and sea. The acidity of the shellfish mingles with Aubagne peppers and ham for a salty touch. Presented and cut before our very eyes, the brioche is a veritable return to childhood, and its delicacy and gourmandise make our hearts skip a beat. The memory of this buttery puff pastry will stay with us forever. Next comes the red mullet. Accompanied by a full-bodied bone juice, it is then grilled in beef marrow fat, which crisps it up and gives it a powerful, slightly nutty taste that contrasts with the mild flavor of the fish and brings a singular balance to the dish.
An invitation
Then it’s time for the chef to invite his guests into his kitchen to taste a trou normand with macerated “black pear”. It’s a humble moment of sharing with the chef, who lets us discover his gourmet lair for a moment, in the company of his teams. We return to our table enchanted by this moment behind the scenes, a timeless moment that augurs well for the rest of the evening, for the dessert hides a beautiful story: the chef’s kindness and ability to listen enabled Cristhian Ohnet, his trainee, to become his pastry chef after just a few years. Today, together, they perpetuate the history of La Mirande with a shared passion and vision.
Night falls under a starry sky over the Palais des Papes, reminding us just how infinitely small we really are. Overwhelmed by such beauty, we admire the entire team, who never cease to make this magnificent place shine, giving it a special resonance.
