Jacopo Romagnoli returns to Gallo
We were patient, but the desire to discover Jacopo Romagnoli’s new gourmet haunt was too strong. A few weeks after opening, pushing open the door of Gallo at 26 boulevard du Pont d’Arve became a necessity. Admittedly, the former head chef of Café de la Plage has made the place his own, but once over the threshold, all the memories of our youth that connect us to Universal came flooding back in an instant, and seeing this arcade so beloved of Genevans rise from the ashes was undeniably satisfying. Alongside his partners, Tania Valenzuela Suárez and Louis Sauzay, Jacopo Romagnoli was able to bring the project to fruition. So, without further ado, let’s discover this Franco-Transalpine-inspired theater that promises to captivate hearts and charm gourmets.
Bocuse, Bourdain and Inter
The spirit of the old Universal is present without being imposing, while the details brought to the fore by the new owners are perceptible. The pleasure of entertaining is palpable. The dining room has subtly lost its antiquity and has an air of newness about it. The kitchen is the protected domain of chef Jacopo Romagnoli. This intimate space, where embers crackle, pots bubble, pans seethe and intensity is sometimes at its most intense, remains the realm of a peerless chef. A figurine of Adriano, star player of the Inter Milan soccer team, sits on the kitchen pass. The chef was a fan from the start.
Portraits of Paul Bocuse and Anthony Bourdain hang on the walls. The former was the chef of the century, sporting a blue-white-and-red collar and a tattoo of the French cockerel on his left shoulder; the latter was the outspoken former chef turned food journalist, who sadly passed away far too soon. A message to pass on? To make no concessions for the good and the beautiful. To “piss off” malicious detractors. The message of unrestrained self-fulfilment through art. To live every second of your life as if it were your last…
Committed and engaging cuisine
We take our seats. The lights are dimmed and soft salsa music sets the pace for the rest of the evening. A crab brioche, topped with grilled cabbage, sea urchin vinaigrette and topped with bottarga, assumes its role as an engaging and engaging gastronomic prelude. An intriguing appetizer that interweaves a multitude of flavors and textures in an open-minded version of the Japanese sando.
The citrus tartare of wild shrimp with saffron-spiked sparkling cream is elegant, with a strong iodized taste. A gourmet moment par excellence follows with a Royale de Comté, topped with a marvellous yellow wine sauce. The release of truffles completes this autumnal beauty. The first sequences of a well-thought-out menu outline the cuisine of a chef eager to break away from his previous gastronomic paths and explore new ones.
No concessions
The 60-day-aged rib-eye was tempting, but we finally opted for a magnificent wild red mullet cooked over the coals. The skin is squared off and the flesh remains as firm as it should be. The toppings are most tempting (a tribute to the triple-cooked fries), to which could have been added a creation based around rice to suit a superb sauce concentrated from shellfish carcasses. Finally, a puntarelle salad with anchovies accompanies a delicious piece of cheese.
Jacopo Romagnoli delivers a determined gastronomic score where boldness and commitment go hand in hand with great culinary technique and knowledge. Is the message getting through? Yes… no concessions are made to the products. Yes… Jacopo is blossoming in this new gourmet temple (and that’s just the beginning). Special mention must go to the front-of-house team orchestrated by the duo of associates who accompany this talented chef. So don’t hesitate to head for 26 boulevard du Pont d’Arve…
