Investing in the Café des Banques
We can catch a glimpse of him on the imposing posters pasted on the streetcars plying the Cité de Calvin. We can catch a quick glimpse of him in his American hamburger diners at La Terrassière. But it’s in the heart of the Quartier des Banques that we’re sure to see chef Yoann Caloué in the flesh. Always behind his new marble pass-through, custom-made for his restaurant, the chef prepares, adjusts and juxtaposes each food item that is to arrive in the dining room. As meticulous as he is precise, this character advocates a
Perfect egg
It’s with this marvellous working tool that Yoann Caloué fashions his menu and calls upon his gustatory memory in search of original pairings and combinations. In no time at all, the former chef of Le Flacon in Carouge has cleverly adapted to a new clientele that combines gastronomic pleasure with business meetings. Not without pride, the owner of this culinary theater sells out all day long. At the twelve strokes of midday, the atmosphere is resolutely business-oriented, while in the evenings, the mix is more relaxed and subdued.
Long awarded a Michelin star in his Sardinian stronghold, Yoann Caloué is not in the least bitter at not having been (yet) rewarded at the latest ceremony of the red bible. He is no less ambitious, and is forging ahead with a range of dishes that appeal to a clientele that loves refined cuisine. At a time when the trend is towards sharing and minimalist menus, the chef offers a varied and elegant range of dishes while retaining certain gastronomic codes. The perfect egg cooked at 62 degrees, accompanied by a divine Jerusalem artichoke mousse and served with black truffle, is followed by oxtail gyozas.
Meticulous creations
Cooked on the skin and pearly through, the cod is escorted by a few shellfish, artichokes and celtuce. A meticulous, seductive creation that gives pride of place to the sea. The same distinction goes to the Nant d’Avril poultry, with its risotto of chard, salsify and grated black truffle. Let’s resist the temptation of the chef’s must-have dessert featuring different chocolate textures, and contemplate a packed restaurant while sipping a strong coffee. Yoann Caloué is clearly in tune with his new environment, which suits him like a glove. With a perfectly mastered gastronomic score that interweaves a few classics and some original seasonal specialties, he maintains his helm with enthusiasm and dynamism. Long may his culinary road continue!
Café des Banques, 6 rue de Hesse, 1204 Geneva, Tel: +41 79 311 44 98
