Hugo Roellinger, Breton energy
It’s hard to put it all into words, so captivating is the experience at the heart of the Roellinger family’s universe. Le songe d’une nuit marine could easily be the title of this journey through Brittany’s land and sea. There’s something mystical about Château Richeux, the gourmet temple of chef Hugo Roellinger. Something that’s hard to explain. As you stroll around the estate on the shores of Cancale Bay, you let yourself be carried away by reflection. Calm is the order of the day. Tranquility comes naturally. This journey takes us far beyond a menu devoted to marine flavors. It’s a personal journey, where the vibrations of the earth collide with the energies of the sea to become one. At the center of this energetic big bang is the human creativity of a calm, soothing team at the service of gourmet delights. Discover…
Maritime inspiration
As the wind picks up over the heights of Château Richeux, a blend of sweet smells from the surrounding vegetable gardens lulls the air… A stroll along the water’s edge is the perfect marine amuse-bouche. The elements are out in full force on this sumptuous spring afternoon. It’s said that the region’s weather can be hostile… not so during our journey. It’s as if the stars wanted to take even better care of us during our visit. Time to return to the estate. Gourmet anticipation mounts with every passing minute. We won’t be disappointed.
Aperitifs are served in the maritime-inspired living room. Each piece of furniture has been hunted down over time, according to mood. Like a secondhand dealer’s room, the floor creaks with each pass of a guest or a member of the waitstaff dressed in short navy-blue pants. Each step contributes a little more to writing the memories of a place steeped in history. As the sweet smell of wax fills the air, the first amuse-bouches arrive, heralding a brilliant sensory awakening. What can we say about the rest?
Moon Wind
A discreet privateer of the kitchen, Hugo Roellinger sails the blue, even turquoise waters of Cancale Bay with his sparkling, brilliant and spicy cuisine. Overlooking this cove, the kitchen of his restaurant Le Coquillage is a culinary hymn to the marine world and the plant world of his kitchen garden. The menu titles are as mystical as they are holistic: living, maritime pine, customs path, angelic, Celtic, lobster story and moon wind.
The buccaneering epic begins with translucent langoustines marinated in jasmine oil and granita infused with hibiscus, mint, lavender and ginger. Let yourself be seduced by minute-cut raw scallops and their seaweed/buckwheat jelly, accompanied by homemade almond milk. The spider crab with Indian pepper and marine sauce is a thing of beauty. Oysters poached and grilled over a wood fire with fennel oil are a real delight. Sea urchin, apple celery and radish topped with a camembert raw milk sauce is a knockout. Sublime garden rhubarb flan and granita infused with hibiscus, mint, lavender and ginger charm.
High tide
As the evening draws to a close, reflections abound. What a place! What a kitchen. What an identity rooted in the Breton tide! What a cheerful, playful wait staff! Humility and humanity are the hallmarks of the Roellinger family. A disconcerting naturalness emanates from each person who contributes to making the experience unfold like a dream of a marine night.
Le Coquillage, Le Bout, 35350 Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes, France. Tel: +33 2 99 89 64 76
