GaultMillau crowns Benoît Carcenat

Modernity and signature

Alongside a score of agents, all anonymous, this discreet, elegant character has the onerous task of promoting the quality addresses of our beautiful country or, if necessary, downgrading them. Even if the exercise imposes an element of subjectivity, ratings have been part of the GaultMillau DNA since its inception. “The essential thing is to do things with discernment, deontology and benevolence, but without complacency. It’s exciting to introduce new products to a public eager for recommendations, and to raise awareness of places that deserve it. We’re always on the lookout for modern, evolving, signature gastronomy,” says Knut Schwander.

The ceremony’s big winner was chef Benoît Carcenat at the Valrose Hotel, who became Cook of the Year, scoring 18 out of 20. A richly deserved accolade that takes him back to within a step of the very closed club of 19 out of 20. Soon, soon! “The Meilleur Ouvrier de France never ceases to surprise us. La Table du Valrose is a world-class restaurant,” says the head of the French-language guide, before continuing: “He and his team offer extraordinarily accomplished cuisine, with exceptional know-how acquired with other great chefs such as Benoît Violier at the Hôtel de Ville in Crissier. Let’s be clear: the Valrose is not a number 2 Crissier.”

A radiant Geneva

Another talent, another destination. Chef Philippe Deslarzes, head chef of the Nordic-inspired Njørden restaurant in Aubonne, takes home the title of Promu romand de l’année with a score of 16 out of 20. Let’s head for the Valais with Gilles Varone, who receives the title of Découverte romande de l’année (French-speaking discovery of the year) for his exciting cuisine in the former grocery store in the village of Savièse. Let’s take a step up to the Alps with the title of Pastry Chef of the Year awarded to Othmane Khoris of the Hotel Alpina in Gstaad.

Geneva continues to expand its gastronomic offering, with a number of new additions. The Carouge-based restaurant Yeast enters this new selection with the remarkable cuisine of chef Freddy Garanjoud and the wine treasures of owner Bertrand Lutaud. Also in the Sardinian city, Le Flacon retains its 15 rating under the new era of chef Lucrèce Lacchio. Not far away, the restaurant l’Agape, by the duo Damien Lopez and Clément Thellier, makes its appearance in this new edition with a score of 14. Taken over by Yoann Caloué, Café des Banques is back in the limelight with a score of 15. An Italian wind blows through the guide with the new arrival of Ciro and his Trattoria Gourmet (and gourmet), which charms with its bold transalpine cuisine. Let’s continue to follow this young peril with the arrival in the yellow guide of chef Jacopo Romagnoli from Café de la Plage. In the wake of the star awarded at the last Michelin Guide ceremony, Andrés Arocena, chef at La Micheline, also rises to the top with a score of 15.