Coin Coin takes to the high seas

From sea to plate

Never short of ideas, the Coin-Coin team decided to set up a fishmonger’s for the summer. On a whim, they all set off in a van with 300,000 kilometers on the clock, no air-conditioning and no radio, through the Mont-Blanc tunnel after two hours in traffic jams, in the direction of a store selling tiles. Faced with a supplier usually reserved for professionals, the team plays its cards right and manages to head back to Geneva the same day with 3,200 tiles in the boot. On their return to Bd Carl Vogt, the whole team began the transformation of their former warehouse adjoining the restaurant, working their way through bags of cement, dust and a fair amount of (tile) grout, to install La Criée, a paradise coveted by all seafood enthusiasts.

As soon as we arrive, we’re invited to explore the fishmonger’s and choose our fish, prepared à la minute by the chef. We set our sights on a pretty 1.2 kg Noirmoutier line-caught sea bass, named after Jean Astache (or Eustache, if we’re talking about the French director) and presented to us as sashimi. For starters, we wait with shrimp croquettes topped with aïoli and habanero reduction. Then comes tarama with lemon zest, followed by tuna tartare with unexpected Parisian brasserie accents.