Coin Coin, a surprise duck
Artificial intelligence may be creeping into our lives, but the human being will always make the difference. Whether we like it or not, we can’t replace them! The Coin Coin bar-restaurant on the corner of Rue des Bains and Boulevard Carl-Vogt is a perfect example of this, following the recent reshuffle of its team. In just a few weeks, this establishment in search of an identity has undergone a metamorphosis thanks to the skill and talent of new players ready to roll up their sleeves for the noble cause of catering. Admittedly, not everything is perfect, but the best is yet to come. It’s hard to remain insensitive in the face of such creative freedom.
The zeitgeist
On the wine list, the trend is towards natural wines; it’s in the spirit of the times. The food menu is all about sharing; it’s right up there with the times. The service is relaxed and friendly; fortunately, it’s in tune with the times. You don’t need white gloves or crystal cutlery to stand out from the crowd. Pierre Lelièvre has understood this all these years. A former maître de salle who has worked at La Pinte des Mossettes, Fiske Bar and, more recently, L’Auberge de Lucinges, he is as familiar with the subtleties of a gourmet restaurant as he is with the codes of a bistro. We’re delighted to find him back in Geneva, passing on his knowledge and expertise.
For a restaurant mayonnaise to take off, one talent usually goes hand in hand with another. In the kitchen, young Valentin Pouzet has created his first menu, which promises a bright culinary future. The pâté grand-mère is delicious. It’s clear that the chef learned his trade with the Verot pork butcher in Paris. Escorted by bottarga and chives, the yellowtail carpaccio is served in all its simplicity… stripped of all artifice. The chef worked with Sylvain Roucayrol, master of the marine sphere at the famous Tuba Club in Marseille. While the caramelized black pudding is accompanied by a creamy celery purée and a slightly crunchy celery remoulade, the cod is perfectly pearly throughout, and basks on borlotti coconut beans.
Caramel tart
As I succumb to the diabolical temptation of caramel tart, my admiration for the profession is multiplied tenfold. It’s a joy to see once again that it’s the men and women who dedicate their lives to this blighted profession who make all the difference. Some young people command respect by refusing to give up in the face of the difficulties of a profession that is often disparaged. There’s something very special going on, both humanly and culinarily speaking, at the Coin Coin restaurant. I only have one wish… that it lasts as long as possible. In any case, thank you!
