At the foot of the vine, Spinach
Jan Bertiaux is finally back at the forefront of Geneva’s gastronomic scene. This spirited chef – with his jovial smile and colorful floral and patterned shirts – returns with an establishment in symbiosis with his philosophy of life. His approach is freer, more personal, more intimate, and even more vineyard-oriented than before, subtly moving away from so-called classic gastronomy, where starter, main course and dessert were part of the daily routine. An assertive and judicious choice, a culinary simplicity that does not prevent a committed wine selection. Flavors that Jan Bertiaux meticulously conquers over the course of his encounters, and which earn their letter of nobility, thus joining their worthy rank of sovereigns of the premises.
Spinach ©Edouard Amoiel
Wine treasures
While the treasures of the vineyard rest in a dimly lit cellar at the back of the room, the team led by Jan Bertiaux’s right-hand man, Anatole Dubin, bustles between customers leaning against the bar or seated on the restaurant side. The place resounds with their laughter, accompanied by lively discussions and debates, giving the room a mixed function focused on gourmet pleasure. In the kitchen, young Roxane Djabali offers a reduced menu, in tune with the times, which, depending on future demand, could perhaps do with a few more suggestions. The potential is there, so why limit yourself?
The usual order of dishes is not necessarily respected, but no confusion reigns in the gourmet den on rue Dancet, and orders are placed as desires dictate. The scallop carpaccio, crowned by a slightly crunchy celery remoulade, is the harbinger of great things to come. The homemade linguine, topped with an elegant bisque of langoustine contrasting with a saladine of broad beans, is enchanting, even if we would have liked to find a few pieces of shellfish in this intuitive dish. Then there’s the magnificent poêlée of sot-l’y-laisse, morels and its formidable cream enhanced with yellow wine, which nevertheless lacks rice as a side dish. A few humble comments that in no way detract from the culinary discovery of an already well-rounded first menu.
Pan-fried Sot-l’y-laisse and morels ©Edouard Amoiel
Blatantly obvious
There’s no denying it: some wine bars are striving to position themselves against the world of traditional restaurants. L’épinard clearly falls into this category. Although this is not the primary objective of this new establishment, the result is a success in every respect. Jan Bertiaux continues to delight us with an intact phlegm, a clear vision and a clear path.
