Asador Etxebarri, what a paradise!
Every kilometer, every bend, every step along the Spanish asphalt brings us closer to the long-awaited culinary grail. Weeks of mad anticipation pile up before we can set foot on the threshold of this family-run business dedicated to the art of fire, embers and product excellence. It’s hard to hide your emotion as you approach the small town of Axpe. The weather is capricious and the sky dark at the end of September. Located just a stone’s throw from the gourmet city of San Sebastian and vibrant Bilbao, the Asador Etxebarri restaurant promises an unforgettable experience.
Edouard Amoiel
Glowing embers
Chef Victor Arginzoniz’s reputation clearly extends beyond the Iberian peninsula. Despite the fact that he has become a world reference in the mastery of fire, he remains a discreet and reserved man. An affective observation, given the look in his eyes as he shies away from the most dithyrambic compliments on his art at the end of the meal. In his tiny kitchen, he concocts an anthology of dishes in which smoky flavors perfume each of his creations, magnifying the scrupulously selected vegetables, fish and meats. Like an orchestra conductor alone in front of the burning embers, every gesture is studied, every cooking precise and every texture respected. A culinary prowess rarely equaled until now.
Like its chef, the setting is sober and humble. White tablecloths sit alongside wood panelling and brick walls. It’s hard not to be moved by being here, as the world fights to be seated in this sacred place. The die is cast and all hell breaks loose when a few slices of chorizo come to grace our table. Barely enough time to savor the food before toasted toast and anchovy fillets appear on the table. A wonderful prelude. As delicate as it is tender, the bonito ventresca is paired with a wavy tomato still bursting with summer flavors.
Edouard Amoiel
Silence at the table
Lobster à la braise, split open and cooked on the grill, is served in its simplest form. Silence at the table. Consternation at such purity; the cooking juices spill out like a sheet of water, which we take care to sauce later. The moment is magical, demonstrating the chef’s culinary arsenal and his ability to magnify the raw material. The same goes for the Palamos prawns, which are almost translucent and can be tasted with delectation at the tip of your fingers. A particular favorite is the sea bream, naturally barbecued and brought whole to the dining room, with a cheerful beurre blanc. A gourmet moment. Now it’s time for the famous chuleta de vaca. Like an urban legend secretly kept among insiders, the long-awaited pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the best prime rib ever eaten. Served blue as it should be, caramelized and grilled on the outside, red in the heart and tender on the inside. No one talks, everyone savors. The moment is so solemn, you have to take your time and step back. Tongues are loosened between two pieces, and the verdict is unanimous: sublime!
While the wildest discussions are taking place over a spoonful of chocolate soufflé and a drop of sauternes, nightfall heralds the end of a day that will live long in the memory. A magical moment shared with intrepid gourmets who make the trip unique. On the way home, it’s hard not to mention the restaurant’s owner, Mohamed Benabdallah Kaddour. As mischievous as he is funny, this great professional and seasoned sommelier did his part to make this lunch a memorable one.
Asador Etxebarri, San Juan Plaza, 48291 Axpe, Spain.
