A new pearl for Carouge
When it comes to bubbling pots, life is good in the Sardinian city. More eclectic than ever, Carouge continues to attract a host of talented toques in search of culinary renewal. The latest is chef Antoine Nouais, who has just set up shop at 31 rue Jacques-Dalphin, next door to the famous Dix Vins restaurant. A former disciple of William Ledeuil in Paris at Ze Kitchen Gallerie alongside Alessio Rasom, this young prodigy of the kitchen passed through the kitchens of the Athénée 4, almost on the sly. Only the initiates who frequent this venue were able to take note of his gastronomic vivacity. His name began to be whispered beyond the gourmets who came to dine in the restaurant adjoining the Parc des Bastions. It was time for him to step into the Geneva spotlight… and now he has!
Edouard Amoiel
Giving in to temptation
As the heat crushes the Geneva asphalt in August, the choice of a place on the terrace doesn’t necessarily impose itself… even if I quickly give in to the temptation of being outdoors. With its uncluttered, soothing decor, this restaurant has everything to please. In terms of ambience and atmosphere, the mayonnaise has taken hold, but a recognizable identity has yet to be clearly defined. The restaurant opened its doors barely twenty days ago, and is well on the way to establishing its bearings and the automatisms required for controlled service. Florian Soler runs the Sabi dining room and waltzes from table to table with equal ease and attention. A master of the natural wine list, he knows how to find the right beverage to match the dish. It’s a pity that an (already) faulty fridge meant that the wines by the glass could not be served at the right temperature.
In terms of cuisine, Antoine Nouais offers a product-focused, natural, plant-based, seasonal approach with a strong Asian influence. The menu is short and the statements are precise. When the raw material is good, there’s no need for useless elucidations. Let yourself be tempted by slices of bottarga accompanied by a compote of apricot and dried plum. From Potager de Gaia in Hermance, grilled leeks play elbows with an egg confit in soy sauce, grated fresh katsuobushi (dried bonito) and a vegetable juice reduction for a touch of acidity. Incisive and languorous all at once.
Edouard Amoiel
Modern tartar
The veal tartare interlaced with periwinkles is simply stunning. With its artichoke cream, nori seaweed jam and fried shallots, it’s a modern condiment. Long gone are the days of beef tartare and its traditional seasonings. The chef adds a touch of soul to a dish usually served with ketchup, mustard, capers, etc. A subtle, committed and devilishly gourmet culinary moment. We succumb to the temptation of pasta with langoustines grilled a la plancha, hazelnut butter and pistou.
The chef delivers a promising first menu. With a cuisine as technical as it is generous, Antoine Nouais is already making Sabi shine after only a few weeks open. We look forward to returning soon to discover the other palettes of this undeniably talented chef.
Sabi, 31 rue Jacques-Dalphin, 1227 Carouge. Phone +41 78 252 02 03
