Japan revisited locally, Fabien Berthet style
At the age of 18, Fabien Berthet began training with Patrick Henriroux, among others, before joining Daniel Boulud in London and Paul Bocuse in Florida. His interest in Japan began when he met his ex-girlfriend, with whom he moved to Tokyo, initially for work.
Some ten years ago, Fabien returned to the region and settled in Geneva. He went back to work at the Kempinski, where he ended up as head waiter and manager. However, his primary objective remained the same: to open his own restaurant by the age of 30. During a conversation, friends who owned Susuru told him of their intention to pass on the torch, the perfect opportunity for Fabien to live out his dream.
Japanese inspiration but local production
With the arrival of Fabien, the concept of Susuru evolved: ramen became definitely local. Today, the owner is proud of the restaurant’s sustainable impact. In 2023, he was awarded the title of Ambassadeur du terroir Genevois, and in 2024 he was one of nine winners of the “A table! mangeons local et durable” competition. And just as in Japan, the zero-waste culture predominates, with everything being reused: from fried noodles for aperitifs to vegetable peelings for broth.
When it comes to playlists, Fabien doesn’t listen to music on a daily basis, but he does at the restaurant! With his team, he created the ideal playlist of Japanese city-pop, some of whose tracks have become emblematic, playing a major role in the restaurant’s ambience, in addition to the subdued lighting in the evenings. “It’s what gives an establishment its atmosphere and identity. I absolutely had to find a Japanese-style playlist that would suit the whole team without disturbing the customer,” says Fabien.
In the coming weeks, Susuru will be switching to Izakaya mode: a bar-like atmosphere where yakitoris, cold starters and ramen will be served in a summery ambience! We’ll have to wait until autumn to see our regular menu again. For the less patient, you can already find Susuru’s homemade noodles on the shelves at Manor, and soon basic ingredients for broth. So you can make your own 100% Swiss ramen right at home… and why not while listening to Fabien Berthet’s playlist!
