Who would have thought it?
Same place, same decor, different menu under the impetus of a new chef. The article could almost end there if yours truly weren’t so detail-oriented. Is this a modern restaurant? Do customers tire of a restaurant so quickly? Should an establishment’s environment be modulated to match current trends? Fabian Affentranger is used to conceptual changes in his mothership Chez Calvin, and is adapting the same principle to his little brother in Eaux-Vives. After the buzz of the opening, let’s take a look at Crudo 7…
Modern taulier
Let’s be clear: Fabian Affentranger has the restaurant business in his blood! You only have to see him move around one of his establishments to understand that a sense of welcome and service runs through his veins. Like a modern-day innkeeper, he welcomes guests with art and refinement, while respecting the codes of the “maître des lieux” to perfection. After bringing the Israeli cuisine of chef Eyal Shani to Chez Calvin (a concept which is set to continue throughout the winter season), he is repeating the experience with chef Marco Garfagnini in an Italian version. It’s an approach that’s sure to appeal to a Geneva clientele that’s always eager for transalpine gastronomy.
As autumn finally graces us with its presence, it’s in the elegant setting of 7 rue du Lac that we take our seats for a gourmet lunch. The white tablecloths are out and the tables spaced further apart than before. We feel like strolling, chatting, tasting and taking our time. The setting lends itself to this, and the weather outside encourages us to do so. A selection of olive oils is presented to us as a diabolical incitement to dip our bread in this sunny yellow elixir.
Amberjack, salmon and tuna
To our delight, the crudos follow one another in a spirit of sharing. There’s yellowtail cut into strips and dipped in a tangy yuzu vinaigrette. Salmon topped with a powerful sweet mustard sauce. Red tuna tartare with a bewitching ponzu sauce. Italy or Japan? My heart sways as the octopus carpaccio with sweet chili seduces with its balance of flavors and textures. It’s a pity that a beef carpaccio in the style of Harry’s Bar in Venice isn’t on offer in these waning temperatures. Who knows… maybe when the menu changes? Honor the pasta… and the risotto with the linguine alle vongole – already a must – and the comforting boletus risotto. Masterfully cooked, portioned, with a playful garnish…
Fabian Affentranger and his Crudo 7 are as elegantly seductive as his remarkable concept of service. In a world where hospitality standards are being lost to technological standardization, the young proprietor is once again the exception to the rule. It’s a role that suits him to a tee, and one that allows this restaurateur to write some exciting chapters in the world of Geneva gastronomy.
