Tribute to the Bistrot

Tribute to the Bistrot

Edouard Amoiel

Edouard Amoiel

07 décembre 2022

With chef Romain Desvenain at the helm, Carouge's Bistrot du Lion d'Or is writing a new chapter in its history.

We had to take our time before returning to 53, rue Ancienne in Carouge. Time to realize that Stéphane Raynaud, the former tenant of the Bistrot du Lion d’Orwill roar no more. It’s hard not to think about it, impossible not to mention it, and impossible not to be touched by it. Time passes, but memories remain, as if this inimitable boss had never really left. His -perfectionist- spirit surely floats around, always in a benevolent and protective way, especially for Romain Desvenain, the new owner of the premises. Stéphane Raynaud would be proud. Proud to see a vibrant youth take up the torch of a place that vibrated to the sound of his voice, and to keep alive the art of a profession he loved so much.

Edouard Amoiel

Smiles are the order of the day

Long under Serge Labrosse’s orders at Le Boléro restaurant in Versoix, Romain Desvenain is thirsting for independence. Just one month after taking over, the Bistrot du Lion d’Or already suits him so well! The decor remains as it was, but a few changes have been made, such as the paintings by Carouge artists adorning the walls of the restaurant. While regulars return with smiles on their faces, new faces are discovering the place with great pleasure. It’s good to see that the dining room is full at lunchtime on this Wednesday. Gourmets always find their way back to the good tables. On the service side, a youthful breeze is blowing through the room, perpetuating the bistro spirit with efficiency and lightness.

Edouard Amoiel

After having succumbed to the butternut and cardamom malakoff as an amuse-bouche, it’s the perfect egg, salsify and cornucopia that make our eyes soft. The porcini ravioli, with its dense, full-bodied broth and a few hazelnuts, is a great success in the spirit of a modernized bistro. The tartine of pig’s trotter with porcini mushrooms and purslane is a gourmet invitation in the purest bistro tradition. As for the veal, it’s rosé, smoked and spiced up with chasselas. The whole dish is escorted by a magnificent siphoned purée (itself also smoked). Smoking pleasure!

Modern wind

While respecting the culinary traditions you’d expect from a bistro, a modern breeze is blowing through Le Bistrot du Lion d’Or. A light gourmet breeze that feels good, reassuring and ensures the future of an establishment that is dear to the hearts of Carouge and Geneva residents. Romain Duvesnain and his team are once again making this restaurant shine in the Sardinian city’s gourmet constellation. On his star, Stéphane Raynaud is certainly contemplating this new epic with emotion.

Bistrot du Lion d’Or, 53 rue Ancienne, 1227 Carouge. Phone +41 22 342 18 13