Raw material
We didn’t expect much from this stretch of Rue Micheli-Ducrest. Walking along this artery is accompanied by a feeling of perdition, as it seems that no soul in search of gourmet pleasure ventures here. It takes a lot of guts and imagination to venture into this culinary wasteland. That said, time is good. One story ends, another begins and suddenly an arcade, long absent from the gastronomic radar, resurfaces. This is the story of a group of passionate players who decided to join forces to make Geneva even more attractive.
When it comes to…
We’ve been waiting for them ever since! Not to carve out a suit for them, but rather as a sign of anticipated delight. With a team like this, all working together on the same project, how could we fail to be enthralled? First of all, there’s Marion Schneider, who welcomes us like a benevolent hostess, and then her husband, Lionel Schneider, the man of the vineyard, who gives us the pleasure of setting foot on Geneva soil after having left the shores of Lake Annecy with a certain Jean Sulpice. The change of lake suits him perfectly!
On the stove side, there’s chef Freddy Garanjoud and his second-in-command Clément Masson. A former chef at Carouge’s Yeast restaurant, Freddy worked for many years in Philippe Bourrel’s brigade at the Hôtel Richemond. And then there’s the couple behind the scenes, a tandem without whom this whole set-up would surely never have seen the light of day: Bérangère and Bertrand Lutaud, the encouraging godmother and godfather. Now that the introductions have been made, let’s get cracking!
Giving substance
The place is sober and soothing. Some discreet work has already been carried out, some remains. Once again, time has done wonders. In just a few weeks, the team has made the space their own. Like its protagonists, Matière aims to be as humble as possible, while striving for the highest levels of taste.
The menu is judicious and spring-like. As short as it is pared-down in its titles, it immediately represents the style of the house and of a certain anti-establishment approach to long-winded statements. The products are the material of the place; the actors in a ballet that Freddy Garanjoud has the onerous task of spiritualizing in his pans. We catch a glimpse of him in his open kitchen. Happy, but focused, precise and meticulous. Rigor is the order of the day, and the first acts of this new gastronomic chapter are written with every gesture.
Table of contents
Escorted by a lemon gel and a bewitching hazelnut emulsion, the slightly crunchy green asparagus is as seasonal as it is healthy. To our delight, the chef goes off the beaten track with soft gnocchi, a few vegetables and a catchy vegetable juice. An off-menu suggestion that frees the chef even more. While the stuffed cabbage with its heart of foie gras plays the ultimate bistro score, Freddy calls for gourmandise with turbot, chives and a duel with fish roe in a magnificent beurre blanc. All this, basking in a shallot purée.
The evening continues. The mood is joyful and relaxed. Marion and Lionel Schneider twirl around, even running between the kitchen pass and the tables. Orders are pouring in… the marathon in the dining room continues. The wine list is already well-stocked, with more to come. It’s a privilege to be part of the first chapter of such a wonderful story, as this culinary tale is still in its infancy and promises great gastronomic flights of fancy. A tale of people who, because of their talents, shape food with brio and humanity. What a superb way to make matter shine!
Matière, 12 rue Micheli-Ducrest, 1205 Geneva. Tel: 022 340 09 40
