Cyrille Azevedo, festive gastronomy at Club 21
Rue Henri-Blanvalet never ceases to fascinate. In just a decade, the street has gone from culinary desert to gastronomic Eldorado, from beverage sketch to wine reference. The finest bottles rub shoulders with inventive cocktails. Indian and Japanese gastronomy compete with Peruvian and Italian culinary marvels. Even the stars of the Michelin Guide have taken up residence in the heart of Eaux-Vives, rewarding two establishments.
Green wall
In the midst of this culinary hullabaloo, so dear to Genevans, is the Club 21. Part cocktail bar, part restaurant and part club (precisely) in the basement, this establishment has made a name for itself among the bevy of culinary offerings already present in this small area. Chef Cyrille Azevedo is the star behind the stoves. Seated next to a plant wall, in front of a huge painting of a woman sticking out her tongue, we observe a most original environment that stands out from what we’re used to seeing… Will the chef’s cuisine match the decor? Let’s find out…
On the map, the headings are separated by slashes in a young, modern style of writing, the antithesis of long-winded formulas. All that’s left is to choose. Let’s skip the nibbles page and let ourselves be seduced by the mushroom cappuccino and its cocoa crumble which, from the very first spoonful, represent the chef’s savoir-faire and reflect his identity. A preparation that must have taken time to achieve a creamy, mousse-like texture.
Modern tartar
As for the beef tartare, it’s a departure from the usual. Cut with a knife and served on a slice of sandwich bread, it is combined with a ponzu sauce, smoked herring pearls, sesame seeds and horseradish. An appetizer executed according to culinary traditions, but which seduces with its original seasoning. Cyrille Azevedo’s game is up, the dice are rolled and nothing goes right. He shakes up some of the dishes on his menu, while the scallops, celery mousse, black truffles and ribot milk take a more classic direction, not without displeasing us. The chef doesn’t fall into the trap of doing the original for the sake of the original. Through his culinary universe, he seems to let himself be carried along by his inspiration. And why not? A free and liberated chef can be found at 21 rue Henri-Blanvalet…
