It goes without saying that Giovanni Passerini has long since won the hearts of Italian cuisine afficionados. This Roman chef, named best chef 2017 by Fooding, combines “della mama” recipes with original, contemporary creations, without ever straying from the classic path. In his fiefdom in the 12th arrondissement, he brilliantly bridges two worlds, unlike many chefs who either don’t want to or can’t. This is the strength of this boxer-like chef, who is successfully pursuing his Parisian path. <\/p>\n
The restaurant is in full swing! The predominantly female front-of-house staff bring a relaxed charm with a lilting accent, ensuring a high level of professionalism and a vision of every moment. Dressed in brown leather aprons, these Amazons are formidably efficient. A large bay window, light wood tables and comfortable chairs make you forget the worst bar layout ever imagined. We even hear, in the course of a brief counter talk, “we should have sued the architect”. Anyway… <\/p>\n
Impossible to miss the mouth-watering tripe \u00e0 la romaine, a house specialty. The starter delivers on all its promises, with an anthology tomato sauce coating the thin strips of offal. Mamma Mia (obligatory)! Pasta is an obvious choice, such is the confidence it inspires. No need to look for spaghetti bolognese or trofie al pesto, the approach is far more complex (even if it doesn’t seem to be). Passerini offers casarecce (Sicilian pasta rolled on itself) accompanied by a sauce based on calf’s head and long-simmered onions, all sprinkled with bottarga. A real delight! <\/p>\n
Whether by helicopter, bicycle, metro or camel, take to the streets of the 12th arrondissement and discover a cuisine that’s as free of codes as it is spontaneous and improvised.<\/p>\n