<\/p>\n
Despite CEVA, the Caf\u00e9 des Voyageurs is still there! Unchanged, as if nothing had happened in the vicinity. Farewell to the buffet at Gare des Eaux-Vives, where a certain Serge Labrosse once officiated, and welcome to an imposing yellow concrete block that will soon house housing, shops and a metro concourse linking Geneva to neighbouring France. The work (per)lasted… but the Caf\u00e9 des Voyageurs stayed the course. The Mulato-Lembo family has taken on the heavy responsibility of running this humble, discreet institution after the much-appreciated tenure of Jean-Luc Leroux and chef Samuel Plaud (currently at Caf\u00e9 du Plateau). <\/p>\n
Although the street has been disfigured by the work, and the herringbone parking spaces in front of the restaurant are no longer there, the restaurant’s d\u00e9cor has remained unchanged. A few tubs of green plants have appeared on the terrace, as if to give an air of nature and compensate for the surrounding asphalt. We take our seats, wait a long time for the (otherwise laminated) cards, the water is lukewarm, the bottle is not opened in front of the customer and the bread is dry. Like the Escalope Milanaise, some of the staples are still there, while others have given way to Risottos, a specialty since 1984, according to the name. The menu is no revolution! <\/p>\n
It’s the press\u00e9 of grilled vegetables with mozzarella di Bufala and basil that catches the eye on reading. Presented in a rosette, the starter lacks character, punch and liveliness. Despite a timid basil pesto, the seasoning is lacking. The perch fillets hold their own, but what can we say about the cherry tomatoes with their stalks intact, superimposed on two spinach flans that are as bland as they are outdated? The beef fillet is cooked rare, but the sight of half a lemon as an accompaniment is still puzzling. <\/p>\n
As is often the case, the decor remains, but the soul is gone. And the icing on the cake (or the tomato on the custard) is to see two cooks smoking on the terrace while we’re still eating! Move along, there’s nothing to see… <\/p>\n
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