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Native Brittany<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
In a hushed atmosphere conducive to secret encounters, where people speak in hushed tones, the restaurant Le Gabriel nestles out of sight. J\u00e9r\u00f4me Banctel is not one to relish the limelight. Modest, even shy, he has a reserved way with words and a moderate vibrato. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
A former disciple of the great Bernard Pacaud and Alain Senderens, he prefers the sound of bubbling pots in his kitchen to that of clinking glasses. Far from enjoying the exercise of going out into the dining room, he discreetly plays a brilliant gastronomic score in homage to his childhood, his native Brittany, and the cooking techniques and products he is particularly fond of. With his Vir\u00e9e Iod\u00e9e<\/em> menu, J\u00e9r\u00f4me Banctel conveys his love of life in an avalanche of sensory emotions in mouthfuls as original as they are delicious. He takes us back to his childhood in Brittany, “where memories of working the land and the omnipresent iodine still shape my relationship with gastronomy”, he says. <\/p>\n\n Throughout this series of elegant creations, he redraws a notion of luxury that runs counter to the image of a palace. Mackerel is thus elevated to the same rank as sole, bottarga to the same level as caviar, to return to culinary fundamentals where gustatory humility is at the center of tastes and flavors. This is the strength of J\u00e9r\u00f4me Banctel and his brigade: to give back to the product its letters of nobility through multiple cooking methods. Fermentation, extraction, maturation, marinating or lime cooking… a festival of techniques discreetly placed at the service of the product. A masterful start with the carrot des sables, cooked with lime, candied, glazed and filled with a ginger-scented carrot pur\u00e9e as it comes out of the oven to restore its beauty. <\/p>\n\n It’s hard not to succumb to one of the house classics, artichoke heart (also cooked with lime) escorted by Sakura cherry blossom vinegar, artichoke pur\u00e9e, artichoke crunch and a devilish “barigoule” mousse… when Brittany meets Japan by way of Provence. The blue lobster is smoked with Bichotan cedar charcoal, combined with pumpkin seed praline and butternut marbles. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n Cooked in the dining room on steaming pebbles, the mackerel is disconcertingly soft, topped with a sea urchin sauce, concentrated bottarga and accompanied by a few samphire on top of potatoes. An intense moment when a rolled head of pork, shellfish and seaweed cream makes its appearance. Left is the land, right is the sea. A phenomenal, astonishing, disarming dish that leaves you speechless. Difficult to put into words… <\/p>\n\n Without wishing to denigrate the rest of the menu, which has only gone from strength to strength, it’s time to put away the cutlery and come to your senses. J\u00e9r\u00f4me Banctel is an immense chef, an outstanding technician, a defender of denigrated foods, a protector of cooking, a master of sauces (each more beautiful than the last), a discreet and humble character who deserves to be lifted into a radiant light in the image of his talent. At Le Gabriel, iodine is the new umami! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" The restaurant at La R\u00e9serve hotel in Paris is much more than a gastronomic stopover. It’s an explosion of culinary emotions in a carefully protected gourmet setting. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":19882,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"slim_seo":{"title":"Unreserved | Restaurant | Edouard Amoiel","description":"The restaurant at La R\u00e9serve hotel in Paris is much more than a gastronomic stopover. It's an explosion of culinary emotions in a carefully protected gourmet se"},"_slim_seo_primary_term_category":0,"_slim_seo_primary_term_post_tag":0,"_slim_seo_primary_term_restaurants-par-lieux":0,"_slim_seo_primary_term_style-de-restaurant":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[356],"tags":[],"restaurants-par-lieux":[],"style-de-restaurant":[],"class_list":["post-19880","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chronicle"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19880","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19880"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19880\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19884,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19880\/revisions\/19884"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19882"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19880"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19880"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19880"},{"taxonomy":"restaurants-par-lieux","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/restaurants-par-lieux?post=19880"},{"taxonomy":"style-de-restaurant","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/style-de-restaurant?post=19880"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Multiple cooking<\/h2>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/amoiel.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Le-Gabriel-Maquereau-©EAmoiel--1080x1440.jpeg\")
Iodine Always<\/h2>\n\n